Yeah, so many holes... I did the Marine Tex patch work on the console sides and re-skinned the top with some new aluminum. The original top was wrapped in vinyl, so depending on your plan, that could cover a lot as well. Little trick I use with the MT or JB when patching holes is to slap some...
Blinds are fine for the stringer to rib attachment. No need to worry about sealing anything up as there is nothing penetrating the hull.
As BWR1953 noted, many use the large flange blinds for the deck attachment, but standard blinds are fine for the stringer to rib attachment and probably even...
Yeah, only way to do it properly is to remove the bow cap if you want to keep it one piece. I've replaced all mine with 3/4" ACX ply, sealed in either epoxy or spar, and wrapped with marine vinyl.
That 3M5200 would flow out nicely in this heat:) You'll likley find more appreciation for the sarcasm once you start playing with it. Have plenty of gloves, rags, and acetone on hand!
Were the 3/16" rivets on the gunnel tops and bow cap visible under the outside trim rail? I was concerned about fitment in that area and decided to stay with the 5/32" on my last two starcrafts.
The holes should be perpendicular to the transom, but I always like to stick a punch into the holes on the old transom to confirm. I took the transom out and drilled them with a bench top drill press the first time I did it. The last two I made a template/guide from the left over/cut out...
All the transom hardware should be stainless thru-bolts aside from the splashwell screws on the inside. Several different methods on how to go about sealing up those thru-bolt holes, some go to great extremes. Keep in mind the original transoms weren't sealed at all. I usually tend to take a...
No experience with the Life Seal, but highly recommend the 3M5200. Some might recommend 3M4200 for those less permenant needs, but I have never felt the need to use anything other than the 5200. I'm on my 3rd build and wouldn't even consider anything else.
Congrats! My kids are my greatest blessing. Definately change your lifestyle and have a tendency to put a few kinks in the boat rebuilding and other projects, but I wouldn't change it for anything.
2.046 = 2-1/16" cut out. That's the direction I was headed, just wanted to make sure I was on the right track. I have a little over ~1" of material to go through with the aluminum console and 3/4" plywood backer/dash panel. Looks like I'll have just enough length to secure it.
Wasn't sure if this should go in the Electrical section, or Mercury section, so figured I'd link it here as well:
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/mercury-key-switch-panel-mount.756624/
Thanks!
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/mercury-key-switch-panel-mount.756624/
Posted in the Mercury forum... still getting my console layout and fitment all mocked up.
I understand most key switches utilize a 3/4" or 7/8" cutout. I am mounting a key switch to a center console and utilizing the the panel mount cover/switch mounting plate. Does this require a 2-1/16" cutout? I can't see any other way to do it.
