Maximum timing advance is your only concern.----Timing at idle looks after itself.-----If you have issues with idling the first thing to do is a compression test.----Post the actual values here.
Try with 3/16" gap.----50 + years ago folks struggled with this adjustment.----Had one customer change this when he got his motor back from the AUTHORIZED shop.-----Caught him red faced in front of friends at the river a few days later.----Set it back to where it was supposed to be and scolded...
?????----The 28 HP is a 30 HP motor !!----It is marketed as a 28 HP " special "---Reason these were marketed was to get rid of a warehouse full of older lower units / midsections !! --
At least he has learned to drive the tapered dowels out in the right direction.----Have seen him struggle with the tapered dowels in some other videos.-----Tried to POUND them out in the wrong direction.
I do not believe fuel goes through the primer valve when you operate the bulb on the hose.-----The primer valve ( when open ) allows fuel to flow from the carburetor to go directly into the engine.
A lot of these fancy electric gadgets and electronics are fine when they work.---At $100 + / hr they are very expensive to trouble shoot / repair. Never mind the electric cars with a mile of wiring in them.---
On my compression tester a good one of those shows 120 PSI all day long.----You have a bad gauge , bad test procedure or your motor is JUNK !!!----In what manual did you read that 72 PSI is factory spec.----Just plain nonsense to me.
Do a careful inspection of the cable from the red plug to the control box.----The motor cable is only to be used for the motor power needs and instruments.----All other stuff needs a separate , fused power supply from battery.
