Thanks
TKS carb, I'm thinking its the module right now
Get it running and warmed up if it will last that long, then disconnect the TKS carb module and see if it does ok
Remove it please and see if the problem still exist
Please don't change stuff and then ask questions to same problem
What is the old wire that probably went to starter, and the new wire?
In old pic there was 2 red wires on the right side and now there is one?
Red/purple and purple should not be connected together
Reading 12.5v on the purple is most likely from bad connections, it should read full V of the ALT
If your motor is wired like the drawing above (less keep Green and purple together) it should run as designed
Mando ALT wiring J is purple...
Thank you
What is the motor serial number, or at least is it efi or mpi. If its carb does it have TKS?
Something is heating up and drawing more current. If its TKS might be module
:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
I remember passing 50, first physical since enlisting and they found I was ok
Next year start loosing mussel mas and then the constant CEL, fix, repai, fix repair
Feel like a Ford
There is something loose, you just have not found it yet
With boat running grab wires and connectors and wiggle. Might be the key switch or wires connecting to them. Being a 2011 its probably MPI so there is a lot of connectors, including the ones on the ECM
Like member MUC (retired marine Master Tech) here has said many times. Getting and paying for a Tech that knows what their doing is expensive, but most times it will cost less to use them then someone who thinks they know what the issue is
Its some kind of stain. I'm rebuilding a 7.4 and it has the same white color under some of the spring areas. Might have been done during manufacture but this motor is a Merc REMAN be rebuilt again
As MUC said, you have to get a Mercruiser Dealer ask Cobalt for the file
Most hulls are made for many years, so a 10 year old hull may still be made today
If its a switch then when motor is OFF a ohm meter will read zero ohms from center condictor to ground. If its a sensor it will read around 30 ohms to ground.
