Agree. I just moved from basic Merc 4.3 to a new VP 4.3 250 hp 4.3. Good VP warranty, but the dealer has a long wait list if I ever need him. I'm queued up to buy a Rinda/Diacom Techmate.
BTW, I like your good, fast, cheap sig. ...used it often before retirement. ...never got me far with the bosses.
I've been offline since April, so...
We trailered our 3000# rig weekly for two summers with a '95 Voyager 3.3 FWD. Plenty of power. But early on I tried a too-steep ramp and spun out. Fortunately the local FD was practicing with their rescue craft. A beefy firefighter laid about 100# on the...
JB Weld is two part epoxy...with metal dust as a binder. Cosmetics are secondary. Filling the holes to seal the bare aluminum against further corrosion is primary. Tape off the bottom of the holes and fill with a two part of your choice. Wipe off the excess with a rag saturated with acetone or...
Stating the obvious here, Chris. This tells me hydrofoils shouldn't be installed on any I/O boat since they're generally set up with the AV plate even with the keel, and the AV plate is under water at planing speeds. Correct?
Seems O/B boats can be adjusted to comply by raising the motor.
My opinion: Band aid for under powered, or poorly designed boats, waterlogged boats, etc. If you're stuck with one of these, try one. If it helps, keep it. If not, pitch it. ...less expensive than anticavitation plate repair.
I missed the details on the prop you mention above. What pitch and diameter? 3 seconds from idle to plane is very, very good. What was your max speed and WOT rpm with this prop?
Maybe, but probably no. At zero slip a 17" prop pushes you 17" per prop rev. 19", 19" per prop rev. At 4800 rpm WOT...
I'm in Iowa, so locally mfg Shorland'r are my pick. I paid $1500 more than my boat dealers four bunk Heritage. Two fully adjustable Equiload bunks fit the boat like a glove, keep it much lower on the trailer.
They have a galvanized line.
Good to know. My previous '96 4.3 LX didn't have one. When I ran a 21P for play, my throttle hand was the rev limiter else I'd see 5200 rpm. ...The 23P prop self limited at 4800 rpm, verifying the rule of thumb.
Pretty sure I see the anode on the leading edge of the anti cavitation plate. Also it appears to be a steering trim tab vs the anode disc. ....assuming this is sacrificial, made from anode material.
The rule of thumb for props generally holds: + or - 200 WOT rpm for each inch of prop pitch change. You stated you can reach 4800 rpm with the 19' P which is about max specified WOT rpm. Since it takes a while to reach this indicates you're power limited. More power will get you to this...
Your anodes appear to be good and in place.
Interesting that the plastic cover on the rear of the upper gear case is loosing its paint. ....plastic doesn't corrode. So my guess is the previous owner repainted with spray can paint which doesn't hold for long.
If you're up to it, this forum has...
Same here. My previous boat had very stiff steering. I went through everything, including buying a snubber valve to check PS pump pressure.
I had new style Merc power assist steering. Even though the steering effort was low with the cable disconnected there was enough resistance to interfere...
What @briangcc said. Between no wake and planing speeds you boat is simply plowing. The faster you plow the more resistance and the stern drops more. Tabs or an anticavitation plate fin may help, but moving gear/passengers forward will probably help as much.
.....mid engine inboard ski boats...
Your '94 4.3 LX is 180 hp. Late '96 and on had Vortex heads and 190 hp. 14"-14.25" props are normal for your drive.
Prop selection has trade offs. You want enough pitch to keep your WOT rpm under 4800 on your engine/drive. Your speed at WOT will be what it is. Pricey props may gain you a few mph...
I'd first remove the cable end from the steering tiller arm and see if the steering wheel effort improves. There could be other issues with the gimbal ring pivots causing resistance.
As far as removing, cleaning and lubing it I can only guess. I'd remove the cable from the boat if you can...
Per my theory above the Shoreland'r roller bunks look fine. It supports the transom below the transom and gimbal housings where the load is the greatest, and also appears to support the stringers/engine mounts. The overhang is nonstructural. Some boat builders specify four bunk trailers...
I agree with Grub above. Best practice is for your transom to be inside/forward of the bunks. ....Having said this, my current and previous Shoreland'r Equiload trailers are two bunk which have worked fine. But Shoreland'r bunks are fully adjustable which allowed me to get the rear of the bunks...
It's been written...sorta. Australian boaters FB group. Carnage on the Boat Ramp. I joined. Lots of laughs.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2152747564940504/
