Going from a 2.0 and 26P props to a 1.65 drive, your going to need to drop the prop pitch to about 21
Even dropping to 21 your hole shot will be reduced because the motor doesn't develop the torque until the RPMs get higher
With it getting that hot something may have warped, but could be carb is not returning all the way back. Remove the throttle cable to see if that helps.
It does look like your motor came with a Q-jet. Does it look like this
You said
Don't understand the spring clip
The motor has an option to install a fresh water flush Tee fitting. Without the Tee, then there might be just a barbed fitting to join the 2 hoses.
That said; your pump has drain fittings on entrance and exit to/from pump to drain water
Which hose are you talking about?
The black thing on the bottom of the exhaust is a valve used for draining the exhaust during winterization, and keeps water from being pushed into exhaust during running
The Red hose is unknow, need to know where it goes. As Ted mentioned, further back
Rule makes some good bilge pumps but I found Aurelio is better then Sahara
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/bilge-pump-discussions.723208/#post-5483556
If your talking about raw water pump in the drive I would use Merc
Motor circulating water pump, make sure its marine grade and suggest Merc
On the side of the carb you should find numbers 861448A1 , this is your carb number.
It fires right up when cold and the choke doesn't move and stays open. This would mean its either hot all the time where your at, or the carb is running real rich.
As Rick said, need to take the carb apart...
Ok, the motor has never run since you had it
The serial number comes up as a carb model/4 stroke
Disconnect the line off the fuel pump going to the carb to see if you can pump fuel (item 21) thru it using the primer bulb
If you see fuel then the carb is clogged up and needs a rebuild...
You can put just vortec heads on your motor without the cam change. With cam change you will get all the power that originally came with the change.
The heads may have bolts in other locations so ancillary items (alternator, power steering, dip stick) may not bolt up, don't know have to look...
Vortec motor has different heads and cam, and yours would accept just a head change
EFI and closed cooling cost, no way to get around it. Just depends on if its worth it to you. I've spent 3 times what my boat is worth because i like the boat
Need more info about your motor then its a 2014 4 stroke.
What is the motor serial number?
Is this a new to you motor?
Don't use anymore starting fluid, its hard on the motor. Squirt gas
Yes it would be good, but will also say it would be my guess that since both are the same number, more then likely they are marine. We just don't have access to the old Delco parts books to verify. most starts on those motors last forever.
If you want to double check, find a starter rebuild...
With more searching, the ALT shows up as marine, the starter doesn't
but then again the 1108381 number doesn't either
ALT
https://www.amazon.com/1100576-1100577-1100894-1100912-alternator/dp/B00OBTSW2O
