like any other fiberglass boat repair. however to keep the wood look and stripe will be a bit of a challenge.
cut out the bad bits along the broken edges
grind the top of the fiberglass to bevel
use a 4# flotation foam to fill the dent where the crushed foam is
put the pieces you cut out...
the 20 foot anchor was sold with a 100hp merc. the 18 foot received a 65hp or 85 hp per the fiberglassics page for the 60's https://www.fiberglassics.com/library/index.php?title=Anchor_Plastics
in the 80's it looks like the 16' boat had a 125hp rating.
use a can of boeshield or fluid film and hose down everything but the anodes. That will slow corrosion from starting.
I wonder if VP changed their paint process a while back for VOC reasons?
The Edelbrock is as close to the original Rochester carbs as you can get. The 1485 calibration kit for the 1409 carb are about as close as you can get for "plug-n-play"
I personally would go with a Holley 4150 650 cfm vac secondary
Edelbrock marine
Yes, there are differences between auto carbs and marine
There are calibration kits you will need for your 4.3. there is no such thing as a "plug - n - play" carb. They all need tuning
Additionally, unless the old carb is physically damaged, rebuilding it is the best option
Hope he pulled the motor apart to put in marine head gaskets and brass core plugs
Highly suggest a marine carb
Hope it has marine ignition so it doesn't blow up
if there is any rust on your u-joints, then you need to address that, replace the input shaft seal and a few other bits in the upper.
did you put a vacuum on the drive per the manual?
We have been on a few NCL cruises. We "upgraded" to the basement on one trip when we upgraded to the drink package and went from 7th floor to 4th.
We had a lot of excursions booked, and usually just crashed in the room
