You need a hub kit for the quicksilver prop google quicksilver prop hub they are interchangeable between props just pop
Out
The rubbex has a different style which is pressed in both will work on your outdrive just need a hub kit for your prop
first take it back to him as timing at be off and this is detonation or something amiss like firing order. if the engine is original it should have the delco est .
this is a parts list of what i think is your engine but best to put in serial number...
I had that on a clear filter on my 65 gto. been a few years but went away when i replaced the 30 year old mechanical fuel pump. Tank was rusty and seemed that when it would sit it took a while for fuel to get back up to the carb… replaced fuel pump and it almost immediately refills carb bowl...
Yes was a no brainer back then. I think a 5.0 or 5.7 was about $3200-$3400 plus freight no core charge. Reman was like $2200-2400. Maybe off a couple hundred on each but no matter who folks got the reman from it was 50/50. i think the same package i got from Mich Motorz now is about $2 k more...
Its great if you have a local machine shop who can do a quality rebuild. Stories like yours is whyi bought a new base engine vs rebuilt. Of course this was in 2015 when the difference between new and reman was just under $1k.
i assume you have a noticeable increase in power with the vortec?
You have it wrong i was calling you out for being an arrogant jerk.
incorrect timing doesn’t just start acting up after 30 minutes...please go to another site with better experts. No one here has time for your BS
3.0 s are always loud. Id swear on the trailer my 3.0 in my previous boat was louder than the 5.0 in my current boat
id hang onto your points as both on here and the muscle car forums you tend to see a fair amount of pertronix failures. If you cleaned points and set dwell they would probably...
When you are cruising along 3200-4000 rpm that is part throttle, not highway cruise which can go leaner than 14.7, but it it not WOT acceleration.
if your cruise is basically ok you just need a leaner rod on the rich/ power end and leaner secondary jets. probably want to get the afr tweaked in...
Yeah those are typical rpm ranges. The older ones seemed to have lower wot than later ones With GT40 heads etc. im not a ford expert but general rule of thumb for stockish V8 s keep it under 5 k and it will live…
Do you have this edelbrock tuning manual ? https://www.edelbrock.com/media/wysiwyg/documents/carb-owners-manual.pdf
the secondary uses the same jets as primary, just different orrafice size.
the reason you have two step rod in any application is so you can have a different fuel mixture at part...
It would seem you have eliminated all engine issues so must have come in through the carb. Not sure if your sunpad has a seam over carb or not. Do you have a flame arrestor cover on it ? These are intended to keep water out of the carb and distributor.they get on the way so people toss them...
The exhaust bellows are already full of water. The exhaust is open to water on the prop end… also the cooling water that comes out of the engine after getting warm is discharged overboard by the exhaust
All chicks and disco balls aside looking at the specs for that kit the temp switch trips at 200 F. Not sure if that is too high for a 3.7? I was under the understanding that the 3.7 was very intolerant to even minor overheats before it spits a head gasket.
Not sure if others here can confirm...
you dont need to buy a kit . You can make your own just take power off the ignition on circuit the two switches can be OEM merc ones to make the ground connection to the block as in attached diagram. Would just make sure the temp switch is correct for the 3.7 that is overly sensitive to over...
