Definitely looks good. Have to see under load. looked like in second video there is a little slop in the linkage to accelerator pump. Just make sure that there is no delay in actuating the pump arm. If there is some slop just straighten the rod so the pump spring is under a little tension. Had...
There is a ball down stream of the pump that can get left out if you take the venturi cluster out. Would suspect either this ball the check ball in the pump well ( they are two different sizes so can get mixed up) or the spring are not in the right orientation.
is a video on it. You can test...
I also keep a spare module in the boat. Used one off ebay. Probably buying it will ensure I will never need to use it...
So the plug wires were bunk?
I've stopped buying most aftermarket items too many bs stories like this lately.
Not exactly your engine but you can see at a given rpm range what a carbed 4.3 will burn in terms of GPH. https://www.boat-fuel-economy.com/new/mercruiser/mercruiser-v6-190-hp
this was fairly accurate for my 5.0 in terms of gph consumed.
Try the man overboard switch. If tripped it will run briefly but when key is taken off start to run position it will cut of ignition.
If that doesnt do it does it have 12 v on positive side of the coil when this happens? Can also try dribbling gas down carb to see if you can keep it running...
There’s two cracks there right ? On below head and one above pan rail ?
Had good luck with this method on mill casting at one of my old jobs years ago was a permanent repair
@achris tagged him here
he is referring to the cast exhaust elbow on top of the exhaust manifold. In salt water these are corrosion prone. Fresh water they usually are lifetime unless over heated or freeze damaged.
My local shop supplied a couple props to trial under you break em you bought em… ended up buying both because i liked one for skiing one for cruising. they should do the same otherwise you can buy them online for less…
Good i was hoping we could leave your mother out of it… i put these serial numbers in on the parts look up at marineengine.com
40 hp comes up as a 2.00:1, 25 hp is a 2.25:1.so 40 hp has less gear reduction.
Apples and oranges … were 19 and 21 same prop, was hub slipping? blade area, diameter, and cup all affect this.
Props are very application specific.
based on info given, assuming tach is accurate if you still have the 13” pitch try it
Your mother is a short shaft? Not sure what you meant
different boats different pitch is required. Do you know if the gear case ratio is the same between engines?
again is cavitation plate even with bottom of boat ? Then motor is set ok , (maybe not optimized). If you only get 3900 rpm u need...
verify the 3900 rpms is correct if so you need to go down in pitch to get rpms up to hit correct WOT rpm range. If you still have the 13" I would try it to see how it reacts.
As far as motor height do you have the cav plate even with bottom of boat? I could see it slowing top speed if it is...
Hard to determine from the keyboard. I had never seen a quicksilver labeled transom before...
I assume it was slip kept and someone didn't keep up with watching corrosion. could have also busted a gimbal ring from hitting something may have found used drive but needed new transom housing...
Can't comment on year but transom looks newer than drive, guessing transom was replaced. Given bubbling on drive assuming corrosion
Normally quicksilver branding is so it can be sold outside of the Mercury Dealer network. Mercury branded items are only sold at Merc dealers.
If you go to...
the instructions are here - is generic for all models ... https://marineengines4less.com/images/companies/1/EST%20Ignition%20Instructions%20-%20ME4L.pdf?1431462059320
of course these are generic so your mileage may vary
