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  1. D

    Can't shift after bellows/lower shift cable change with Bravo 3.

    It should be so easy to shift that you can do it by hand. *With the engine running at idle.
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    Can't shift after bellows/lower shift cable change with Bravo 3.

    You can only install the drive in neutral. For installation, take the cable off the bracket.
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    Can't shift after bellows/lower shift cable change with Bravo 3.

    Please tell me you have the engine running...
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    Marine Engine Depot

    Doing top end jobs on raw-water cooled cast iron blocks and heads that ran in fresh water has me convinced that we should be using aluminum blocks and heads with full closed cooling, hence why I'm starting to figure out eventual re-power options. The amount of flaking I've seen and rust that...
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    Marine Engine Depot

    Yes, the system can fail. That's why I always fill it with antifreeze after until it comes out as well. Engines should really be closed cooled.
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    What part is leaking water on Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI 5.7 L

    These plugs are such a pain in the butt...they're basically single or double use.
  7. D

    Marine Engine Depot

    We have marinized auto engines in our boats...it's just 25 year old tech typically at this point. The new engines are so much easier to winterize and service the basic points as well, with features like single point drains. You can marinize an LS/LT with a marine cam almost as easily a SBC/BBC...
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    Marine Engine Depot

    I have a scanner :D, but I think you're right. I just don't get why we still run ancient engines with modern electronics bolted to them. For me, I'd rather have mostly old-school with a carb or something fully modern that can take advantage of all of the progress made in the automotive world...
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    Marine Engine Depot

    Anybody have any experience with these guys? Would love one of their LS/LT engines in my boat some day! https://marineenginedepot.com/62l-di-enpac?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwISlBhD6ARIsAESAmp6rlJAIcY7gEz8lBt65yji9G8bZaa5SeLfOtw21UpFu_DIOxa4crgoaAqG7EALw_wcB
  10. D

    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    This has a non-OEM dash-mounted kill switch that I installed last year. The wire connections are all heat shrunk and the kill switch only has .01 ohms of resistance. I have also had it bypassed for a long while with a jumper wire to rule it out for testing. It seems the actual wires themselves...
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    I know this, but this is helpful information nonetheless. I'm tracing the purple wires coming out of the I terminal on the switch and have found that the voltage steadily drops out. At the tach it is around 10 volts. Back at the coil, 8.7. All of the connections are clean and secure, but the...
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    Update 2: Alright so I have 12.6 coming out of the I terminal at the switch. Found the harness for the kill switch and have 12.54 there with .01 ohms. Have 11 volts at the kill switch and 10.54 at the harness that heads back to the engine where I'm seeing 8.6 volts at the coil. I'm starting to...
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    Update: Measuring around 28 ohms at main breaker. With a loose pole. Will replace. Found a loose ground at the main bus too. Now have 8.8 volts at the coil. Tach was also loose at the I terminal. Cables at the starter solenoid are very corroded. Will clean. Measuring 7-8.5 ohms at the perko...
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    I meant the sensor inside the distributor. The module looks to be grounded through the harness.
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    Hey man, this is a different boat, not mine, but a client's. It is a 1997 WellCraft with a 5.7 2 BBL Mercarb. The ignition is Thunderbolt V. I have gone through this diagram. It is helpful, but doesn't account for low voltage. I'm going to check all of the grounds, tach connections, and the...
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    The ignition sensor*
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    How is the ignition module grounded?
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    It's brand new.
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    It's attached to the main engine ground.
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    8.7 Volts at the Coil

    I'm going to check the main bus bar connections behind the engine. The ones behind the helm are all snug. I will double check the tach, but like I said, I bypassed it to rule out a fault. I also tested the kill switch by bypassing it and it's fine. The wiring there is all heat shrunk and is...
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