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    How to tell a replacable hub prop

    Gee, do a internet search on the prop brand and model you want. pick the lowest price. Do the same for the hub for that prop. A local prop shop likely charges a premium to pay for his brick and mortar store, and other skilled labor and tools. Internet sales can be much cheaper. They...
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    How to tell a replacable hub prop

    Prop hubs are usually about $50, and you only need 2 of them. One for a spare. Now you can buy as many different pitch prop shells as you need, that fit that hub. Aluminum prop shells can be had for $75 or so. You might check some other source.
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    help me please if possible

    When you rebuild the carbs, it is wise to clean them and install new gaskets, inlet needle and seats and floats. Invert the carb covers and bend the carb float levers so the upper (on inverted carb cover) lever, is parallel to the carb cover. With the carb cover non-inverted, there should be...
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    help me please if possible

    The three carbs bolt to the block. Next to them on the block are 3/8" vacuum hoses. These are the balance hoses and connect to elbows in the block on the top and a tee in the middle, next to the carb bases. There is a small (1/8"?) hose that connects to an elbow at the base of the powerhead...
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    Some simple questions on a '85 75hp

    The manual choke wire (Merc used copper wire and ring terminals, for some reason), connects the choke lever to the black plastic knob directly above it. The knob is a friction fit into rubber. You pull up on it to choke. The rear cowling support (you call it a cage), has four 5/16" bolts to...
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    1991 Mercuiser 4.3 ignition system update

    You might post this in the MerCruiser stern drive forum.
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    How to tell a replacable hub prop

    If you look at the back of the prop, and see plastic, the hub is modular. If you see all brass, the hub is fixed. The prop shells are usually tapered rectangles, with eased corners. Therefore the modular hubs have a lot of surface area to grab. I have never damaged a prop hub, but I...
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    Power Tilt/Trim Installation - Late 70's Mercury 90HP

    You will quickly find that the power trim cylinders are a lot longer than the shock absorbers, hence the PTT brackets. The PTT cylinders mount on the shock lower mounts, and bolt to the separate PTT mounts. The PTT brackets mount to the shock upper mounts, if I remember correctly.
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    mercury 2.5 lower unit shimming

    Knock-knock joke right? 2.5 lower shims who? Can you be more specific with your question?
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    very cool carb and intake manifold causing moisture

    I have seen water in the crankcase of an Evinrude V4. It was not caused by condensation. It was caused by some sort of leak. As a rule Carbs get real warm after running a bit, hence no condensation there. Vapor lock is more common. Airplanes (because of the altitude) are an exception. The...
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    very cool carb and intake manifold causing moisture

    Racer, I think you are wrong. Lets see what the Op comes up with.
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    Size of outboard

    A light 16' footer with a 40HP big twin was pretty standard in the 60s. 25MPH was the max cruise.
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    1985 75 hp mercury kill wire.

    The black/yellow wire is the ign killer. Mercs used to have a mercury switch (small m) which killed the ign if the motor kicked up. They may still have had one in your year. A generic wiring diagram shows the third terminal from the bottom on the left is the killer wire terminal. It should...
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    150 Johnson will not idle

    OK, I did not know that the motor would immediately restart, and run with advanced throttle. Those motors are prone to idle lousy after restart, and even stall at idle. Some call this heat soak. Your issue seems to be more acute than usual. The work around is to let 'em idle at 1200RPM for a...
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    New control box

    You can add a separate trim button, however, it will likely need to be mounted on the dashboard. It is inconvenient, as you need three hands: one to steer, one to control speed and one to trim, while accelerating. I would expect you could get a new control with built in trim button relatively...
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    Overheating issue.

    Gee, Have you established that the manifolds are not clogged? Exactly how did you do that? You can pull the hoses off the manifolds and risers and see the water flow, when motor is on flusher. What you cannot see is if water flows thru them. Exhaust Flappers will not fix your issue.
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    very cool carb and intake manifold causing moisture

    Racer, I have never see white sludge in the intake manifold of any motor. Under your statement that would be common. I presume the white sludge is fuel mixed with water. Water can and does get into the crankcase from leaks or cracks.
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    150 Johnson will not idle

    Check for spark, when it stalls. A lot of those motors use +12VDC to the powerpack, when engine is cranking. You may therefor see spark when cranking, and not when you release the starter.
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    What goes here

    Looks like something went there. Look behind the dash and see if it has wires or a rubber tube. A tube would indicate a water pressure gauge. Wires...who knows.
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    Concerned about Hull Config / Cramped Engine Bay

    IMO, 21 foot is a bit small for an I/O for precisely the worry you have. An OB is a better way to go on a boat that size. You also get a lot more cockpit room. You do have to give up 1/2 the swim platform, however.
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