if you have a garmin that is NMEA 2000 compliant, you can get their fuel flow meter to connect to that. it goes in-line between the motor and the fuel tank
Boating is the world's most expensive hobby
However with any new to you boat, you need to do all the maintenance that was ignored by the prior owner before selling it to you. I simply listed the annual maintenance requirements for your AQ series drive. Most likely a 270
The raw water inlet...
Your question assumes everyones boats have the same boat hull, same gear ratio, same prop, same load, same wind, same trim angle, etc.
2 identical boats can have different RPMs at cruise
Your burn rate is 0.4# of fuel per HP commanded
The block busting single point drain works only if the boat is operated in a swimming pool (no debris and dirt)
The system starts getting plugged at the lower block drains, it spreads to the drain manifold and the block never drains
Anything over 150 is an overheat
Start with servicing everything...... That the PO didn't
Pull the drive, for all drive maintenance, including a new water inlet casting (common issue)
Pressure test the O-rings at bottom of pivot tube
Service the raw water impeller again (it's probably...
There are only 4 starters for I/O GM marine motors (non RH , and non Inboard )regardless if it's a 3.0 liter or a 8.2 liter.
The straight across pattern for 153 tooth flywheel in both direct drive and PMGR
The staggered pattern for 168 tooth flywheel in both direct drive and PMGR
The DB...
you wont hear anything with a tapping test until the wood long ago rots away.
only true way to tell is a test drill down low in the bilge. 5/16" bit, drill 3/4" into the transom about 2" up from the hull bottom and 3" over from the drain plug.
if shavings come out wet, dark and smell like...
being a searay pre 2002 and being a 1988 with rot.
its a given you need to cut out and repair properly.
just surprised it took this long. most of the rot should have showed up 20 years ago.
epoxy wont work.
epoxy by itself is really really brittle. as in glass brittle
not to mention, the hollow chamber most likely extends into the stringers and the flotation boxes.
most likely when you pull the box off, you will find the stringers gone, and the flotation foam water-soaked...
Here is what I have done to clean rusty metal tanks.
with aluminum tanks, skip the muriatic acid
cut-n-pasting from past threads:
Here is what I have done in the past
simple cleaning - 2 gallons of simple green, followed by 2 gallons of boiling hot water, go for a drive down a back country...
part of testing equipment for OPEI is a phase-separation freeze test of the fuel tank.
This is a requirement for all plastic fuel tanks on lawn mowers, snow throwers, etc it takes a lot of work to get E10 to phase separate for testing. usually leaving the tank in the cold chamber for well over...
the 305 only has 260 hp if it can hit WOT. there is not much torque under the curve.
if the motor never gets above 4600 RPM, there is only about 210hp there
look for a 4D or 8D industrial battery box. I have one in my boat to hold the fuel pump, oil filter head and extra oil filters, a some auto chemicals, etc.
its not. you are literally worried about nothing.
phase separation generally doesnt happent unless you let the fuel sit for a long time at really low temperatures.
again, you are worried about nothing.
because simply tilting doesnt always cut it as the tilt also changes the bow attitude but doesnt raise the motor. many flats boats use jack plates in addition to T-n-T to run perfectly flat in 4" of water by getting the boat on plane, trimming it out, then raising the motor to get that perfect...
