there may only be one style of distributor cap available. that is it. you get what is available. you most likely do not get to change style of lead connections.
I would sand it down and do your own non-skid.
I used fumed silica to thicken the gel, rolled it on thick, then used a bed liner roller to make the texture.
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1988-rogue-2420.486013/page-9#post-3435737
any process where you learn something is a valuable experience, no mater what the outcome. remember, Edison did not fail 10,000 times building a light bulb. he simply learned 10,000 ways to not make a light bulb.
rock on GM......rock on
if successful, will you take donations to plate parts?
HEI is GM's term for their "High-Energy-Ignition" coil-in-cap automotive distributor. truth is, all ignitions are high energy.
however Matt is correct, they were NEVER used in a boat because as they came from GM, they were never tested for SAE 1171, nor were they available without vacuum...
forget the ipad. bring your ipad out in the direct sunlight. it will shut down shortly after from over-heat. a garmin is sunlight readable and doesnt shut down
plus the garmin comes with a transducer to actually bounce sonar off the bottom under your to tell you what is going on. the SV's...
being a 1979, it would be white, it would be a hydro-mechanical shift stringer 400.
my guess this is a new to you purchase. please note that that drive was obsolete in 1980, replaced by the next obsolete drive that was from 1981-1985
if you havent done so yet, you may want to pull the drive...
pull your motor and take it to your local machine shop.
you must first machine the block before you buy pistons, rings, etc.
nothing special about a 4.3, however expect to pay about $1800 minimum to rebuild. I personally would go with a vortec block/heads which you can get for about the same...
is the starcraft aluminum or fiberglass.
if aluminum, you would be OK to run with rotten floor, etc. although all that water will make it perform like crap. the aluminum is hull and ribs are the structure of the boat. however the transom relies on wood, so that may be an issue.
however if...
I should have rebuilt the cylinders, however they were not leaking or showing any issues.
easy fix though, pull drive, pull glands, swap seals, install piston and gland, re-install drive
Went to put the boat in yesterday (easter)....
Truck tire had a screw in it, went to plug and the plug tool broke off.
After spending an hour, hooked up the trailer. Drive was down. Thought that was strange.
One trailer tire was flat. Bad valve stem
Spent 3 hours washing the voat inside and...
In addition to going thru the carb, make sure your compression is good. 140-150 psi good.
Also, other things that will prevent the motor from spooling up:
Wrong prop or gear ratio
Improper throttle cable adjustment
Carrying 1000# of water in the hull
Wrong timing
Worn cam
Flappers dropped in...
You wont find a tool, probably wont have found it 20 years ago either. Your only choice is find a retired OMC technician that still has tools and rebuilds these obsolete drives as a hobby, or send it in to TC Electronics www.sterndrive.info
How are you testing? Make sure you are testing with the boat in the water or with muffs
Dress the face and the cover
Check the inlet fitting io the drive itself. The ine the hose connects to. If that fitting is corroded or broke, it wont draw water
