@cyauch, Have you done a complete backflush of the raw water cooling system? It seems like you have a flow restriction that prevents sufficient flow at high power. Seems to be a common theme with all three overheat at idle threads.
Hate to say it, but you need a new gimbal housing that bolts to the transom. The U-joint bellows seal interface is corroded or broken away and you'll never be able to get a good seal on the bellows. "Luckily", this foregoes the need to remove the seal as you'll need to install a new seal onto...
Note that by drilling out the damping orifice, you may experience more abrupt braking and clunking. It will likely be acceptable, but it won't be as smooth applying and releasing the brakes as it used to be.
Any Volvo SX-M or OMC Cobra SX lower unit with that ratio will work. I believe a '95 or '96 DP-SM duo prop would also work if you can find it, but I don't know what ratio you would need to change to for a duo prop. Someone here would know that.
He's saying that fuses don't protect for positive shorts to ground if that short happens between the battery and the fuse. That's the benefit of placing a fuse close to the battery, reduced exposure to positive shorts to ground. This can also be handled with good wire management/placement, as...
Attwood makes a version without straps that has been working for me for years.
https://www.zoro.com/static/cms/product/prev/CWR%20Electronics%20Corp_59934XL.jpg
Here's a link to drill down to the part. Go to SD Accessories in the Product pull down menu. Then drill down to Remote Control Assy - Concealed.
http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=aac13b02-dcdc-4ca9-bf95-c5a5da5111fa
You remove the pivot housing from the the gimbal ring/assembly. If it's like an SX-M, you'll need a large allen hex socket to remove the pivot housing. It makes the bellows replacement much easier and ensures you get them installed and sealed correctly.
Grease is all you need for both...
I had the same issue on my Cobra SX. I used an impact gun and 1/2” drive flat head screw driver socket to loosen it. Make sure the driver socket is new (sharp edges) and it’s full flush in the screw when you use the impact gun. I bought a larger than needed driver and filed/ground it down to fit...
There should a limp (SLOW) mode that receives signals from a dedicated oil pressure switch and a water temperature switch that kicks in at 2500 rpm. The gauges for these run off separate sensors. I believe the switches go to ground when activated.
@MalibuMike, To test the solenoid, first make sure you're getting 12V to it when the switch is depressed with multimeter to the two wires. Then confirm the inlet hose is not plugged by removing it from the solenoid and confirming solution flow. Then do as you suggest by removing the outlet...
