Well there is not much. Most years the block drains will drain without being poked. Sometimes I do have to poke em though and even if they do appear to fully drain, I always poke em just to make sure. I do agree that most salt damage occurs during the season but if we can slow it down in the off...
Ok one thing I forgot to mention, when I start up in spring I don’t get rusty water out the exhaust. So maybe that shows us something. When I pull off the elbows to check em this fall; I’ll see how the manifolds look. Usually 5 years in salt & elbows yes must be replaced but the manifolds if...
Mine are good. Boat sits on a rotating mooring with 2 pennant lines hooked to the cleats; it’s been out there in tropical storms with no problems. When I had the boat painted by one of the best ‘glass shops on Long Island the replaced all 4 & did a nice job….
Same thing I have a roller as well. Can’t recall where I got that idea, might have thought of it myself or saw it on some forum. My local ramp is convenient but with the dock not being close to it, when launching alone you have to get creative…
Agreed, I will use only OEM for parts like that, it's not that much fun to have to re-do it because of a premature failure. My OEM Cobra bellows last at least 10 years if not longer before I see small cracks in the folds, then I change them because that's a sign the rubber is getting stiff.
I look at it this way; in salt water we try to keep salt off of things by using coatings like Corrosion X, on trailer parts like fasteners and leaf springs. With regular applications this is fairly effective at reducing corrosion. To me filling the engine block with antifreeze with corrosion...
That will work. I had the same issue so what I’ve done with my bow rider is loop a dock line from one cleat loop it around the winch stand and then tie off the other end at the other bow cleat. This will hold the boat from rolling off the trailer while you take tension off the bow strap. Then...
In order for that system to work the radio must be compatible with it and also you have to have a GPS unit that provides your location. Also there is a number you have to apply for through the Coast Guard that is the identifier of your boat .
Now you can get newer radios that come with built...
I had the same problem with the bow stop because I had lowered the boat on the trailer by about 2-3”. So I would up lowering the winch stand to get the strap level and flipped the bow stop to get it to fit right. Much better now when I launched it this season it just rolled off like it should.
About the trailer
For the bow stop you want the bow eye just under the upper roller, the way it is the bottom roller looks likely to catch on it & make it hard to get the boat on & off. That lower roller is adjustable and you can just raise it slightly. You main bunks look ok from what I can...
With both ends disconnected there should not be more than 2.5 lbs drag in the transom shift cable. If there is slop in the remote control that can cause other problems like grinding into gear. The basic idea is that the shift cable must move with little resistance and you must get equal throw...
It could be the adjustment of the shift cable, the bell crank in the pivot housing could be getting jammed up due to water getting in around the gasket, or the cable itself could be getting stiff. Anytime there is drag in the shift system it can cause the ESA system to be engaged too long & this...
Agreed not knowing how thick that area is, you want something to spread the load out, like maybe 1/8th" alu plate if you can get it cut to size, or galvanized steel plate. You can use wood but just make sure to really coat it in resin.
PS I had to rebuild all the gas tank mounts for my boat...
