After nearly 20 years, I would reseal the whole LU with a new kit. The prop shaft seal may be weeping. There is only the one o-ring that seals the prop shaft housing to the LU, so if that's new and everything is clean, that's not it.
The bolts that attach the "hook plate" to the "handle" of the motor are stock metric items. Available from better hardware stores, or at Tohatsu PN
9101036830M
BOLT
for less than 2 bucks. You may also want new nuts.
Yes, it should be open. Your needle/seat is not seating properly. Clean the carb. Properly. You are flooding. OR, you can install the carb for an MFS6A and get 50% more power, then fix the old carb at your leisure.
Right. That info is in the copyrighted service manual. The timing indicator is where the two castings come together. Yes, you need to check at WOT and have the carb fully opened. Adjust so that the timing shows 25 at that split.
The original kit is still available.
3C8873223M
WATER PUMP REPAIR KIT
$66.43
Available
But the upper housing requires the newer parts:
3T5650160M
UPPER PUMP CASE
$30.68
/*MUST USE WITH 3T5873223M W/P KIT OR 3T5 PARTS*/
Easy as they come. I have done them. Fun to breathe new life and accessories into vintage motors. I believe the "sender" adjusts the pulse width to work with the modern setups, since there is no longer the pulser, exciter, and alternator. The C3 only has the exciter.
Correct, but on "alternator-type" tachometers, the question is number of alternator pulses per revolution. Both 2- and 4-strokes of this size use "wasted spark" on exhaust, so a 4-stroke uses the same tach setup as a 2 stroke.
