I do not agree with this. You have a multi port injector engine. There are a lot of sensors in the intake portion of this engine that will be damaged by the spray in fogging oil. Plus you are not treating the injectors by spraying. Spray is for carb`d motors.
The easiest way to fog a injected...
This is what I use also. Engine oil has made significant improvements since your engine was built, you do not have to use exactly what is states. Drive oil needs to NOT have limited slip additives.
I`ve experienced the same thing. I had several tablespoons of water in my SX DPS-A oil when drained but pressure and vacuum test exceed the specifications significantly. I am debating replacing seals vs just leaving it alone for now. Apparently there are circumstances of a drives` life that...
Like said above, I simply pour an ounce or so of two cycle oil into my fuel filter when replacing it, run it for a few minutes, good to go. Do not spray fogging oil into the throttle body.
You need to drain that +20 mixture out of the block as it is too weak a concentration for winter. Like stated above use a 50/50 mixture. You need to drain the heat exchanger, hoses and the manifolds of all raw water. You can leave dry but I prefer filling with good quality pink antifreeze to...
I have heard fairly good results with the aftermarket pumps. There may be a few lemons out there but for the price you can buy a spare and still not be near the cost of the OEM. I would suggest purchasing an aftermarket to get you through the rest of the season and have your old one rebuilt. I...
Do you have a "blue cap" flush port? If so, you might try running on that to see if symptoms persist. If not, you probably have an issue in the drive pick up tubing somewhere.
If you find that the LP pump is bad these days you can just replace that pump. There are many aftermarket pumps available online from ebay and Amazon as well as entire fuel cell assemblys for a fraction of the cost of OEM. This option might get you through the season, in the off season you could...
Pop the plastic cover off and check the shift linkage to see if everything moves when the throttle is pushed forward and in reverse. If it does, you probably have internal problems, if not, you should be able to correct it and get back on the water.
Your pump bearing seal has crashed. Just replaced mine. I would attack it soon as the bearing will be rusted and water will be thrown all over your engine compartment. You can rebuild the existing one or buy a whole new unit for a couple hundred bucks on Amazon and replace it quickly.
I would try running on muffs before going to the lake, if it works, then take it to the lake. But you might first prime the pump via the blue flush port, then try the muffs. Make sure your blue flush port cap is on tight before you run on the muffs.
You can clean and rebuild yourself, I did mine in the off season or you can buy an aftermarket for a couple hundred bucks. Just don't buy an OEM one because of the price. I agree, someone should have forseen the paint problems ahead of time and that it should have never been approved for acceptance.
Looks like you are going to have to try to secure a rope/cable to the portion remaining and give it a big pull, perhaps with a come along or something that can supply similar force.
Make sure your blue cap flush port is tight and seating properly and has the O ring in it. If not, your pump will pull in air and you will lose the ability of the pump to pull in drive water. You might pull the impeller out and inspect it for damage due to the overheating.
