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  1. Lou C

    overheat mercruiser

    I've posted this many times over the years but here goes, there is NO need to pull the stat to pour AF in the engine. You just disconnect the big hose at the stat housing, put a funnel in it, and fill it till AF spurts out of the neck of the stat housing. Then fill your manifolds via the feed...
  2. Lou C

    FWD Drive (forward facing drive) Volvo Penta

    That looks like what used to happen to early Mercruiser Bravo 3s even in fresh water. I think the cure was more anodes… Also keep in mind the effect of two stainless steel props in causing galvanic corrosion. I agree with another poster in that if the anodes look good but the drive is corroding...
  3. Lou C

    overheat mercruiser

    If you didn’t test the AF concentration you would never know how MUCH actually got in. Cast iron Marine engines warm up very slowly at idle in my experience.
  4. Lou C

    overheat mercruiser

    Anyone who tries to winterize their boat that way....should take a sample from the block drains, and put it in a freezer set at zero*F and see what happens, that will tell you what's really happening (or use an appropriate antifreeze tester like the one in the pic I posted that can be used with...
  5. Lou C

    What is this on the transom?

    yep, thats why boats redone by owners can be much better built, as has been seen in the resto forum many times.
  6. Lou C

    Engine clunk on first start

    Yep, agreed with possible hydrolock, check that first and then make sure the starter bolts are tight.
  7. Lou C

    What is this on the transom?

    As long as you seal the hole in the transom with some resin & then sealer there is no problem with running your speedo tube and transducer cable through the transom above the water line. My boat has been like that for many years. Just seal the hole properly.
  8. Lou C

    What is this on the transom?

    This has worked for me for a LONG time. Every few years re-bed the screws, or use the stern saver idea instead....
  9. Lou C

    overheat mercruiser

    Its risky because with no load on the engine you really don't know for sure how far the 'stat opened, if at all. In fact one year I tried an experiment. I had AF in the engine after winterizing it. In the spring I ran it up on the water hose for 20 min. Then pulled the block drains to see what...
  10. Lou C

    overheat mercruiser

    Or you can manually drain, poke all the holes, then pour AF in via the hoses.
  11. Lou C

    Winterizing time!

    The drain plugs are supposed to have O rings on them, make sure they are in place and I also coat the threads with OMC gasket sealer.
  12. Lou C

    FWD Drive (forward facing drive) Volvo Penta

    That’s what salt water drives look like after being painted with anti fouling paint 20x and never dripping the old stuff off lol!
  13. Lou C

    FWD Drive (forward facing drive) Volvo Penta

    The only thing that makes sense is either the wrong anodes, or a lack of bonding wires, but even so that much corrosion on a 4 year old drive not stored in the water makes me think bad batch of aluminum. Here's mine. 34 years old and used in salt water & moored in salt water for 20 years. Anodes...
  14. Lou C

    Winterizing time!

    OK the one on the port side is to drain any water out of that plastic fitting in the pivot housing that might get trapped (you know the one that the raw water hose to the transom is connected to) if the hole isn't clogged, that is. I do get water out of there when I remove it.... The ones on the...
  15. Lou C

    FWD Drive (forward facing drive) Volvo Penta

    With these units I recall reading that the upper drive unit is the same for both the regular & forward drives and if the replacement Fwd lower unit is too expensive maybe you can find a cheaper used conventional SXA lower. That level of corrosion is extreme for a unit that new, & not left in...
  16. Lou C

    Axle weight capacity

    Maybe you can contact Sea Ray to get a correct HIN & approximate weights from them
  17. Lou C

    89 Volvo Penta AQ271C ignition or carb, maybe something else

    OK you have a Prestolite BID unit, correct? I believe that those have mechanical (centrifugal) advance just like the points distributors did. Have you verified that the advance unit is in fact advancing the timing the specified amount the the specified RPM? They have centrifugal weights that can...
  18. Lou C

    Winterizing: Fuel in tank options?

    I don't drain mine or run them out of gas but I start everything up every 2-3 months, make a huge racket and love the smell of 2 cycle exhaust and that keeps gas from evaporating in the carbs. The one most prone to that was the Toro because it uses a Mikuni carb with a float bowl on it not the...
  19. Lou C

    Replacing carb question

    lol yeah I have posted that one a lot, but I used to think, oh well a Q-Jet is too complex for someone who's not an expert in carbs, it isn't. Only a bit more complex than that Rochester 2bbl. The fussiest carb I ever worked on was a 3bbl Kehin on my 1980 Honda 1300 Civic. Simplest, the Autolite...
  20. Lou C

    Replacing carb question

    Looks like a Rochester 2GV or the Mercarb version of the same thing. The are easy to rebuild, better to rebuild a good original core than buy a 'remanufactured' Franken carb that you get on line. Get a book and learn how to do it. Not rocket science... Here's its big brother the mighty...
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