Moving them one a few miles won't help they will be back. Hear you can hunt Coon year round (except deer modern gun season), their varmints and destroy many other game bird nest.
Disconnect the lower shift cable from bracket. Start motor and at idle you should be able to move the cable F/N/R by hand with ease. If it moves easy then its in the bracket, cable or control. If it doesn't move easy then its in the drive
Well they might be cleaned but don't know how they flow at different RPM's nor how much they differ from one another or within spec, but its a good start
I've bought from Leaders RPM and got what was posted, no issues so far. Be good to contact as your doing.
Don't think its legal, but could remove the EFI system and install a carb
Don't know but I had one custom made from 3/4 stainless tubing, which would be even stronger then larger tubes of aluminum. Was made by the company used to make custom Bimini and enclosure
I just bought last season a Yardarm jack ($1K) so I could get the drive on/off without damaging to me or the drive. The year before man handling the B3 (without props) back on I chipped off a piece of the skage.
Need to replace the impeller for next season, so I need to hang upside down to...
I thought about I/O but I'm really getting tired of winterization. Do like my 27PC's motor and hearing all that power until it gets pulled for the winter, then its , oh no here we go again
Thanks and I've heard good things about Yam, but two issues keeps me away. I work on my own stuff so I want to be able to ask a question and find folks that can discuss issues, and parts can be found
Even hear on Iboats there are not many that discuss in the Yam section and no one around here...
The standard wire coming from ALT to Starter post is Orange (original wire from Merc). The Red was added at a later time.
That said, you could disconnect orange at the ALT and run a new 10AWG wire from ALT to Isolator. Best to have 90 Amp Fuse/Breaker inline from ALT
Also disregard the sense...
