Took some digging, but here is an Interlux product that I think fits the bill:
https://www.interlux.com/en/us/boat-paint/antifouling/vc-performance-epoxy
That being said, I don't think the original Starcraft paint was anything special. A lot of guys have used Tractor Paint with hardener. I...
Any reason why you are trying to use Sherwin Williams or such for the epoxy? I only ask as they aren't who I would think of for marine bottom paint.
As @classiccat mentioned, Interlux is a big brand in the Marine environment.
That being said, I have only used Fasco Epoxy and have been...
You are correct that isn't that standard transom. I thought the oversized splashwell was a waste of space. I modified it so that I could fit two livewells, one on each side. Also I have no issues climbing or jumping around on it, where I always had concern with the original.
SHSU
As I don't store my boat in the water for extended period of time, take my suggestions as such.
They do make antifoul specific for aluminum boats. That being said, since you are going to be in fresh water, I wouldn't worry to much about antifoul. You aren't trying to combat clams or oysters...
Those wood screws should be thru bolts. See below pic of my SS16: You can just make out the nuts I used and it was all SS.
As @g0nef1sshn showed, I used backers as well to prevent pull thru.
SHSU
+1 for nail or screw in hole. I also add a couple layers of tape on top as well. Keeps it sealed and have had no issues keeping tubes for months.
Now fast cure is a different story. That one I never could get to store well.
SHSU
I would agree that G-Flex/Gluvit it closer to the original sealant then 5200. That being said, 5200 is a great sealer too. I have used many a tube on my project and will continue to do so when needed.
SHSU
A little heat can be used to help "Soften" it but would use as a last resort. Other option is to use a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Will create a mess, but you will be able to control the removal.
SHSU
+1 for forstner bit
I used epoxy so was able to back fill with it. That being said that is a lot of JB weld. Might be able to use Tightbond III mixed with Sawdust to create a filler instead.
SHSU
Looking good!!
One thing to keep in mind, if you tested water leaks prior to removing the paint, you might want to test again since you plan to leave it bare. The paint may have helped "seal" some of the rivets. Might be a worry wort, but something to ponder.
SHSU
It was my understanding it was supposed to seep in between the cracks and seams. I applied mine in Texas heat so it might have been runnier then normal.
SHSU
I have a Seloc and it hasn't been bad. If I were to do again, I would try and get an original. I keep hearing about extra information in them that the Seloc isn't to clear on. Then again, I don't know what is in the originals either....
SHSU
Cracking? Any idea where its coming from specifically? I didn't hear or see any cracking on mine when I laid the Gluvit. I wouldn't' expect anywhere you put Gluvit to flex enough from walking to fail.
SHSU
SHSU
I know some have drilled holes in the wood transom where the buck tails came through to give the space needed for a flush fit. Don't need much of a hole, just time to figure out where each holes needs to be drilled.
SHSU
