Possible, I am by no means a historical expert on it.
That being said, I think you would be causing more damage on the internal transom if you tried to bolt it down that hard. The point load from the screws would be pretty extreme.
SHSU
It happens, so just remember when reinstalling the knee brace to plan for the extra length needed with the rivets. Also suggest looking at adding an extra plate on the exterior. It was suggested to me by @Watermann during my rebuild and I am glad I did it.
As for the drain plug, I moved mine...
Transoms are usually done with two layers of 3/4 ply BCX as you mentioned. The 1/2 inch external pieces seems to have been an old attempt at vibration dampener. Most people don't replace them during the rebuilds.
SHSU
Man that is a lot of mulch!!! lol
Looks like a fun project.
Echoing @jbcurt00, should be no issue in removing transom wood and splashwell for the repairs. Just don't go trying to swing on the gunwales.
SHSU
You are moving right along!!!!
So one thing I will comment on with your knee brace, as you have added that patch all of your through hull bolts wont align anymore as you have elevated them by a 1/8 of an inch. Don't know if you planned on reinforcing the knee brace and redrilling the wings...
For the gunwales, you have the finish trim along the edge. If you remove that and glue the vinyl under it you shouldn't have an issue. I have had zero issues with mine on the gunwales and floor. Just the ones on the side have been my problem children...
That is a great idea, I didn't even...
Nothing like a quick early project task completion to give you the headway into the boat itself. If I had done my boat restoration before the Motor or Trailer, I am not sure if I would have... Those were quick "wins" that helped keep me motivated while working on the boat.
SHSU
Yep, that is why I covered mine, I quickly realized how long it would take to get the glue off and decided to just cover it. With that also came its own challenges and won't be doing that again. Getting vinyl glue to adhere to Aluminum isn't fun...
SHSU
I didn't do it in this specific circumstance or material, but anytime I seem to have left stuff direct in sunlight after applying a finish I get uneven drying and stuff bubbling on me. Sun drying things out quicker then it can gas off
Just my 2 cents
SHSU
Yep, prep is key. I know I did a lot of work with wire wheels, degreaser, acetone, and Water/Vinegar mix to prep anywhere I put epoxy directly to the hull. Also sacrificial anode is a must regardless of fresh or saltwater.
SHSU
Looking Good!!!
Besides just being able to pull the doghouse forward for work underneath, any thoughts on making it removable for maintenance at the house?
SHSU
lol, I we all have that moment when we realize "SSSSSS*******************TTTTTTTTTTT"
Yep, its starts to get better when you are putting her back together. It was a long time getting there for us, but once we turned that corner with the riveting and started to put the floor and stuff back in...
Howdy All,
Please help me in congratulating Classiccat in his 1975 18ft Super Sport restoration for 2020s Starmada Splash Of The Year!!! What a great project and thanks for taking us along on the ride!!!
SHSU
Welcome!!
Man that is a nice project boat. Will be a lot of fun when you get her back on the water.
The 50 HP is severely underpowered for the size boat you have. Did you mean 150 HP?
SHSU
Yep, right now with everything out is the best time to test.
Ah I see what you mean. With the floor torn out you should be able to bang most of it out.
Both, so there is a C channel that runs the length of the hull on both sides. I used solids on that one. Then the channel for the rub rail...
Pour foam gets everywhere, so not surprised tanks is encapsulated. You may be able to setup a short pulley system at both ends to try and lift it out or at least pop the tank.
SHSU
