Thats an mc 1 drive. A prop for mc1, R,MR, and alpha drives will fit it.
I believe The thrust washer need to be changed out to work with your current prop.
it doesnt look like your new prop has a removable hub , its pressed in right?
you wont be able to turn it by hand unless the plugs are out, then it shoudl turn fairly easily.
did you correct the firing order and timing and did it run ok afterwards
You can clean it out, send it down and jb weld it . Same thing happened to my grandfathers boat occasionally had to re expoxy it but ran that way for years no issue
I think You should be running the non restricted gaskets with your style thermostat housing ( cold manifolds). As AD said that isnt the issue thermostat should hold back water enough to keep it at temp. i would guess you have a mismatch between the thermostat, manifold crossover, thermostats...
You have a 96 and up vortec block, which is actually better… you can see 8 vertical intake bolts and the plastic cover plus electric fuel pump… just order parts for 96 and up the plastic cover is technically not reusable …
youve seen the advice given here , and keep asking the same question
Strong sentiment that oem merc are longer lasting and better fitting.
if you want to try a less expensive your call.
Lots of things it could be. He can ohm out the coil vs specs chris gives. If its bad replace it.
would start with checking contents if fuel filter for anything but fresh clean gas.
verify the condition of ignition components
prob needs a carb rebuild
yep as stated the driveshaft, gimbal bearing, drive input shaft and vertical driveshaft are turning all the time the engine is running. On an alpha onky the propshaft doesn’t turn when in neutral
I would check the accessories by disconnecting the belts as well. Might be a gimbal bearing, does changing the drive or steering angle make any difference?
Its typical to find black wires with ring terminals in the engine harness that are unused. Mine had one as well. Seems like they may prep...
This means the trim limit switch (round puck on port side of gimbal ring) is bad. It limits how far up you can trim before needing to use the trailer button. You can jumper the switch out in the engine compartment easily, as the switch is a pain to change and best done when doing bellows etc.
Draining is the best way -If they were clear of debris then that should drain it completely.
Possible it is only the water crossover in the intake. I can't recall if there is a plug on the water cross over of vortec 4.3s that needs to get pulled as well?
You could pull the thermostat out and...
Would look at
fuel filter empty and look at contents
ignition system what is condition of cap rotor plug wires and plugs. Assume you have a thunderbolt ignition . May want to look at sensor in distributor especially if it has the exposed terminals which is the older design.
try opening gas cap...
Would bet the block is cracked under the heads in the lifter valley
looks like it wasn’t properly winterized. Are the outside of the exhaust manifolds cracked as well?
