Yeah feel the same way. I repowered 21 ft BR from a 4.3 to a 5.0, should have just stepped over the 5.0 and done a 5.7…. Biggest engine offered in my boat was a 5.0 mpi, thought a 5.7 would be too much, have yet to own a boat with too much power ….
If using an of the shelf crate motor not originally intended for marine applications - just make sure you verify the cam will work in a marine application. Generally truck cams are ok but if it is a muscle car crate engine you will need a cam swap.
Just on parts availability alone the merc...
its a 1/4" npt plug not 1/4 -20 . Be carfeul with the excractor as they can snap off in there. Yes I would apply heat as long as you dont go nuts with it you will be ok.... Worst case just drill it out and retap with a pipe tap.
oh man I missed that. Ok thats a different story . Now I feel better about paying $3k ... You can always counter offer or ask his squeel point. Id have a tough time paying $8 k if I couldnt do a compression test and see oil pressure... but people are paying stupid money for boats now. I suspect...
Agreed that it is always funny to see boats cars etc listed with easy fix... why wouldnt seller fix it and get more money for a runner.
Either of those issues at $800 I still think its a deal. I would do a compression test cold to see if the longblock is in good shape.
I bought a couple of...
You may be able to borrow one from an auto parts store that rents tools. Long term you will want to fix your tach in dash anyways. You may just turn the knob on the back and see if it comes in line.
17 or 18" really just depends on prop manufacturer (some are even pitches only some are odd)...
your tach is off or on tge wrong setting (4/6/8 cylinder) if it really was only 2300 rpm you wouldn’t be on plane yet
fix the tach or use a shop tach and find out where you are at wot rpm before playing with props. in a nut shell if you want more hole shot go down in pitch try a 17 inch or go...
Same thing happened to mine due to the sole fin or whale tail I had on it snapped at the bolt holes find a prop shop or welder and have them weld it inside of upper looks ok
If you are running a mechanical pump the fuel line for the 357 alpha or bravo , which uses a Webber carb (identical to edlebrock), would be as close to a bolt in as you can get
Depends on what you have for standard. The fuel line off the 357 alpha and bravo engines will work if you have a mechanical fuel pump. I used the original fuel pump, filter and brackets off my original 4.3 wih a mercarb a d stretched It to fit my 5.0 with an edlbrock.original line had metal ends...
The difference in hop is from the cylinder which requires a different intake manifold
I suspect if you can see pics of the different head ports and manifold you can probably tell visually, or maybe research head casting number which I think would be under valve cover
