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Simple....excellent job, way to use your noodle. 😉

Try squeezing the primer ball on the gas line when it bogs down. Fuel pump could be the issue or dirty carb. Post results.

Does your motor still have it's vro?

0438602 That's the whole pump kit.

One moment you say 3500 RPM's, then another moment you say 5800 RPM's....which is it? I'm assuming, wait, I'm hoping you mean on the water pushing a boat.....if not it means nothing. Try posting pictures of this beast.

Well I won't comment on the numbers, others will come. My best guess though, if your motor will run in the water, on a boat, up to 3500 RPM's, then the motor itself is fine and you have other things going on.

When my 115 E-tec....did it, it was going on for a year and I thought it was my bushings for sure but I read that at the E-tec site and bingo it fixed it. Poster never said he tried it so I'll just let this go. Thanks for the reply. Wonder why I can't watch the video....strange.

Crosby, were you able to see his video because I couldn't. My E-tec did it and this was all over e-nation at the time. Tightening the not made mine go away. Barnacle bill has much to offer in advice for the guy.

Pictures of the motor with the cowling off will help immensely.

The charge kit is labeled under accessories. Here it is. Finding a used cheaper stator will be your goal. https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-accessories/index.php?year=1977&model=Electrical+1977&section=Battery+Charging+Kit+9.9-15%2F25-35&yid=34200&mid=34201&sid=36114

I have a 1978 so I'll send you pictures. The short answer is yes. Rectifier, bus bar, then maybe something under the flywheel. Lithium wont work....not compatible with the charging system. Others on here love their 4 stroke lawn mower batteries. I'm using two 27 series on my 16 lund with an...

"don’t seem to be blown" Test them with a electrical meter. This is what you want to say, "Fuses are good"

Your committed now....all or nothing. You can put wedges between the LU and the mid section and either the shaft will pop out or you will destroy the water pump leaving the shaft hanging in the block. That's what your up against... Either it will be "bingo" time or a hunk of scrap.

Yeah, that was assumed. It was an alternative to purchasing a stainless tilt tube.

You can buy time by cleaning your existing tube with a brush and WD 40 and I run a brake cylinder hone up there. It will continue to give you troubles though.

It would appear bolt 66 goes to the exhaust housing.

Part 79 goes to the zinc... Part 68... Where does that go

You need to heat the snot out of the part that that bolts to. Vice grips.....try to tighten it first. Keep heating, back and forth. Patience.

Yes, but have someone crank on the wheel on the direction needed. Pretty good amount of pressure but no superman stuff. There are plastic bushings in the tilt assembles but with the old grease and stuff you can heat it longer than you think. Small movements each direction and back to happy...