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Since the engine still runs and if you give up on the boat that Buick “nail head” is still popular with some old school street rodders. Obviously it is a fresh water only engine. Worth some $.

With the engine running try pushing the lever that makes the switch cause the engine to stumble.

The 2 plastic plugs that connects the engine to the main harness is usually where the bad connections exist. The smaller one is for the tilt. Just wait to see how much fun you will have removing the tilt motor, you will invent a whole new vocabulary of “X” rated words!

Where the fuel line connects to the fitting on the tank is where the suction tube is located. Un screw the fitting from the tank, the tube usually screws into the fitting. If there is a filter in the tube push it out and pitch it. Using teflon tape put it back together.

What could be happening is a vortex forms under the pickup screen. Then the oil gets air bubbles. There may be too much clearance between the pickup and the bottom of the pan.

Post a picture of your cap, rotor the distributor body and the points. Someone on the site will know what you need.

Get A 6 gallon outboard tank and set it up where it is easy to connect to your engine. Run the boat on the regular tank until the problem starts then switch to the other tank. A very good chance the problem is in the tank suction tube internal filter.

Yea, if the engine is a V8 then it is a 200. I thought it was a V6. After the Buick V8s then they converted to Chevy 283s then 307s.

With the ignition on and engine not running shift to forward, try to rotate the propeller, it should lock in one direction. Next loosen the oil drain screws and see what comes out. If the lift still works that would be a miracle. If the carburetor is a 2 barrel then it is a 155 hp, a 1 barrel 150.

Most times the sender is the problem. There is a membrane inside that leaks internally, they sometime read normal on start up but after a short time they equalize internally and rear 0.

Those Evinrude/Johnson boats were very well built and quality was good. Unfortunately they were expensive and priced themselves where OMC most likely lost $. If your boat is a pre 68 model original drive parts are impossible to find. While the engine may still be in good condition that is where...

With the engine off shift into reverse full throttle, the roller should still be in the center of the “V”. If not then look for the ACHRIS tutorial video on this site which should help you.

Post some picture. That will be some help to figure what you have.

Did you disconnect the shift interrupter switch wire?

Post a picture of the carburetor. Then we may be able to help.

If the marks were still in line you are good.

If the picture of the timing chain is your engine you have it right so that is not the problem.

Once the trim block is down you will see that it is real easy to feed the line through the hole. Wrap tape around the open end before pushing or pulling the line through, there is a lot of dirt in that area.

To get to the leaking line the trim block under the gimbal housing has to come down. Remove the 2 lock nuts and you may have to pry on it but it will come down. A 3/8” flare nut wrench should loosen the lines up. The most forward line is the high pressure “up” line. If there is no source for...

Look at my post #11. Also you can get more information if you google “converting a MK5 to adjustable rocker arms”. You just need the stud and locknut kit or the “poly lock” style which are better. I do not feel that there is a valve problem.