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DDIS I thought was distributor less with a coil pack individual coils for each cylinder, there was a sawed off distributor base that drove the oil pump and was the trigger for the spark , essential a crank position sensor, an amplifier module and the coil pack were on back of stbd side of engine...

it wont hurt anything in there unless it melts which I doubt will happen unless there is no water

oil makes sense given the age of the engine. But usually water will steam clean the plug. Easy to take them out and spin it after it sits. On the initial stumble might use a spark gap tester on all four plug wires to see if you are loosing spark. Might just be a carb por choke setting that...

take the plugs out after it sits and spin the engine if water is leaking in after shut down you will see it come out the plug hole, or have you already confirmed that ? Spark plug will be clean on a cylinder getting water in it as well. If I recall you are in fresh water so rot is unlikely ...

That is a metric bolt Given the 9.8 marking On. 4.3 the 090M casting used m10 bolts for the starter, flywheel cover, and side motor mount holes. Based on the short length I would be thinking the side motor mount holes. amazingly the rest of the bolt holes on the metric blocks are SAE …

My replacement long block came with the sensor but my engine being carbed does not use it. you may have to buy the sensor and install it to plug the hole

I have used magnets to hold the mat to the oil pan. Seems to work well on my 65 pontiac

Yes on flywheel cover (aka bellhousing) The 470 uses a standard Chevy bolt pattern. not sure on the coupler probably best to cross check part numbers of the engine serial numbers

different dealer networks so sort of makes sense. Looks like a 3.0 of that vintage uses and o ring and splash shield set up. Same as on my 65 pontiac vs a modern viton seal...

the difference is the flywheel size and coupler style. Older engines has 2 piece rms and 12 5/8" flywheel, later are one piece RMS and 14" flyhweel. Earlier engines used a crank hub mounted coupler , later the three bolt (current) coupler that bolts to what would be pressure plate mounting...

I think you are good to go. I made my own pressure tester as well used a metal threaded fitting off an old lube pump as well, hose and a 3/4" plumbing test fitting with a scrader valve on it (amazons finest). It leaks a little. The only leak I had was the shift shaft. I would send it as well...

is that the exterior one that plugs into the upper vent screw?

will be no issue, some of the Gen 2s did not have the revesior. when I had my gen 1 years ago I would frequently check the level (upper vent) and the drain (bottom) for evidence of moisture. Just a couple times a season. Biggest issue you can run into with this set up is the drive input...

yep a cut off washing machine hose works great but just the hose end works ok , just need to tie it off so it stays there or have someone hold it

it looks like that end of the hose goes into a pipe thread x barbed fitting so no reason a pipe plug cant go in there. could also put a vacuum cap over the barb if its still in the bellhousing.

Agree with others take the cap off and look split the drive. as a sanity check maybe run the engine with drive off to verify the noise is gone with out the drive turning. can stuff a garden hose in the water port on the bellhousing to do this. One thing ujoints can be tough to diagnose by...

Hard to tell from here but my first place to start would be pull the drive and check gimbal and ujoints. Also drain drive lube and check for metal.

I think the main difference between a TB 4 and 5 is the active timing where it constantly adds advance, watching for how much rpm increase the engine responds with until it stops increasing rpm (mean Best Timing) . there is a graph in factory manual - shown in post #8 here...

not all TBV setups used a knock sensor. I dont think I have ever seen one on a 4.3 or carbed 5.0's I wouldnt be concerned at all if your total timing is correct for the engine. I dont think 4.3s use much more than 24 total degrees (maybe less) , maybe even less . With an advance light I...

With spliced connections did someone swap in a delco est ? Or it is a TB maybe spliced a differnt generation igntion module as many are no longer available