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I am not very good at the T&T cause I have not worked on so many OB with T&T. Only follow the spec from the OEM workshop manual. Have three OB with T&T, one Chrysler 45Hp, one 125Hp Force and one Chrysler 135Hp.

Maybe bad seals, use regular 10W40 oil and see what happens. Do not use power steering oil or ATF oil, it can hurt the seals.

What engine are we talking about, year or model number and Hp. Is the seal kit for your engine? The seal kit can be a universal that can fit other Hp and models. You can find the bearing cage at Ebay or Franz Marine. To change the seal pull the bearing out and pry out the seal and put the new...

See you have a screw driver in the hole where the pivot pin screw should be. But to put the shift rod back you have to disassemble the gear case as the shift rod has to be threaded back into the gear shift arm.

Looking at the pics your engine is a 1967 or 68 year model with magneto ignition. The 45Hp had two different ignition system in he late 60:es. Magneto or battery system.

I can imagine a digit to the right of the digit 2 but can not tell what digit. If you are not familiar with ignition system it is hard to give you advise, but I will try. First of all pull the flywheel and check the surface of the points and clean it with fine water grind paper (400 grid or...

Your model number must be missing one digit. 5542(8) is 1968 year model and looking at the pics the top cowl is one from 1968. 1968 was the year Chrysler introduced the 55Hp. Concerning your ignition issue you have to check out the ignition system. The 1968 year model of the 55Hp had two...

Standard prop for the 25Hp was 8x10, 8x8 for the 20Hp. No aftermarket props for these engines. Michigan Wheel had props for them back in the days. You will also find them at Ebay. All 20 and 25Hp engines I have had or have worked on had 3 blade props and it is more than 20 engines.

Parts are available, Franz Marine is a good source. He will have all parts that are available, Ebay is another source. 25Hp from 1973-1975 have the same gear case as the 20Hp from late 60:es until 1975. The prop for the 25Hp have a larger pitch then the 20Hp. 1976 Chrysler change the LU on the...

Yes, they should close almost completly. Workshop manual says you should adjust the butterflies with a piece of writing paper between the carb throat and the butterfiles when closed.

Does you choke butterflies work and does they close properly?

The compression numbers are low, number 3 and 4 way to low. A healthy engine would have about 140-150 PSI in compression. Number 1 and 2 could be in good shape cause the numbers can depend on the compression gauge, number 3 and 4 are bad even if the gauge shows low numbers. Pull the head and...

Please follow the rules. Start your own thread, this one is 12 years old.

95 PSI is low but if it is equal at all three cylindres it might be the gauge that is incorrect.

Yes, I know they are pricy. Bought one for my 4 Hp Chrysler 1978 (same engine) must be 10 years ago and it was expensive even then.

Clean the rotor cam gently, just to get rid of dirt at the surface. Put a very thin coat of grease at the cam surface and clean the rotor button, contact terminals for the high tension wires, no grease for them. The distributor pully is spinning with the same speed as the flywheel soo no need of...

The only way you can see the cooling water is the "nose" att the leg. I mist of water should be present there.

It looks like it is okey. Nothing wrong with it. As I said before, from you video I do not see anything wrong. It seams like it is working properly. When starting you have to pull the cord rapidly in the beginning with this Bendix gear typ recoil starter.

Sorry wrong part number. Switched two numbers. Right part number 43-803624T.

Check the pic for part number 43-803642T at Crowley Marine. The spring should slid in and suit in the groove at the bottom of it. If that groove is gone the gear will not work properly. In your video it locks like it is working properly !!!!