Search results

All the wire I added was tinned 14 AWG. Ground wire from the harness attaches to the aluminum bus strip.

I pulled the console panel out and this is what greeted me. Some of the wires was smaller and not tinned. They were replaced with 14 AWG tinned wire. Marine grade heat shrink applied to connectors and mechanical connections have been varnished. I cleaned up all contacts and in some instances...

OK, the red and wire goes to battery. The green wire (field) goes to the voltage regulator mounted on the transom. That leaves the yellow/black wire to be the sense wire. All the connections are polished to near mirror finish and then coated with electrical varnish. It sounds as if the...

Not sure I'm following. Bad Sense leg on the ALT?

Battery online, ignition switch in Run: Volt meter is zero or drops just slightly below zero. Trim motor does not spike volt meter.

I fired it up last night and monitored the voltage output at the alternator, at the battery and starter. On cold start up the alternator output was 16.4 VDC. After about five minutes it dropped to 15.2 VDC at alternator, battery and starter. Meanwhile, the volt meter in the dash dropped to...

Well, I thought I had this dialed in. Took it out today and volt meter was showing in the positive but over the course of an hour or so under way, mix of WOT and low speed cruising, it dropped down to zero. When I hit the trim switch the volt meter would jump up to where it was on start up...

There isn't a plate. The boat is a 1969 Starcraft Starchief. The serial number on the outdrive is 2528633, which puts it in the era and indicates the motor was a 120 originally. My suspicion is it is not the original motor.

I have not had any success finding anything about this engine by its serial number. There isn't a tag anywhere on the back of the motor by the starter. All there is, is the number stamped in the block below cylinders 2 & 3 on the right side of the engine. 1M10082RQ

Now that I've ironed out my latest issue with electrical, thanks y'all!, I'm looking to reverting my carburation back to the original configuration. The current carb has the larger base 3 3/4" x 2". The original carb has the smaller base of 3" x 1 7/8" and much smaller bore of 1.47" versus...

Well, I went through every connection in the engine compartment. Polished every single point of contact and measured voltages before starting the motor. Reading 12.84v DC everywhere. Started the motor and rechecked voltages. 14+ volts everywhere except off the alternator. The alternator is...

After replacing battery cables and battery switch I am not experiencing the problem now. I can run the trim, blower and sump pump without any issues. But my alternator now seems to be acting up. When I start the engine the volt meter shows +12.5~ for a bit and then drops to zero. So break out...

That is an old picture. The power cable is brand new and all connectors are bright and clean.

I wasn't clear, apologies. Reviewing the Mercruiser Service Manual 1, there is no reference to a circuit breaker. The manual covers 1963-1973, my Mercruiser being a 1969.

I've looked at the wiring schematic for the boat (1969 Mercruiser 120) and have not found a circuit breaker. This is not a current photo. The only difference though is the battery cable is a new 2 gauge cable.

No circuit breaker to be seen anywhere. No inline fuse or fusible links either. There is a main fuse (Buss) behind the control panel and there is a fuse block with fused circuits.

The search continues, lol.

Replacing the cables and the switch solved the problem. The starter is more vigorous and the system does not die when I turn on an accessory. The alternator output drops and engine rpms drop (probably less than 50 RPM) when I turn on the bilge pump, system doesn't die, but it's noticeable.

Also I replaced the switch. All new gear from battery to starter.

Thank you all! The battery to switch cable had a lot of corrosion at the switch. The switch connection was melting too. So I replaced both cables. Both were 4 gauge and the battery to switch was pretty bad. Upgraded both to 2 gauge. And put marine grade heat shrink over the seam where the cable...