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From what I have read, people who clean heat exchanger and similar run in salt water circulate Barnicle Buster through the heat exchanger for awhile. Unsure if a reverse flush with a garden hose would do that much.

And the goal would to flush what? Oil cooler? And the goal would be to flush out the oil cooler?

I also noticed the catalitic converter is inside and between the riser and exhaust manifold. Was not sure what a boat one would look like. Hope no one steals it like the do from cars. So one would expect the area between exhaust manifold and riser to be pretty hot. But not set off red...

I have had rusty pulleys sand down the belt in no time. I (laugh) initially the movement of the belt would remove the rust (laugh again).

I am thinking that all the black engine is the 2012 engine and the red is the 2011. Almost everything is black including exhaust manifolds and risers. Only the heat exchanger and sea water pump are red. So one thought is that the oil cooler which is inline from outdrive to sea water pump could...

I have a box with new impeller but the old one was in such good shape I decided not to replace. I had the impeller out in my hand. Looked for cracked rubber, damaged rubber, flexible. Looked as good as my new one.

But which sea water or coolant? The pump running the closed system is your normal water pump similar to a car, all metal. It can leak but cannot really stop pumping if there is coolant to pump.

Raw water impeller looked fine. Blades undamaged and flexible.

OK - I think it's slightly more complicated. I am not running the boat except to test it. Then read the codes. Pulled raw pump. Looked fine. Blades very flexible and no damage. So the build sheet from this 2011 Chaparral boat says the engine is a 5.7GiC-300-J Serial number #A127622. The...

I was remembering that I recently had two mechanics work on the shift control and shift cable. One was not very good. I found the power to the fuel pump unplugged. So I was thinking maybe the engine was turned over enough to ruin the raw water pump. Maybe even briefly started.

Well it is what it is with respect to catalytic converters. I will go down do the boat with an IR thermometer and a new raw water pump and verify the cooling system to determine for sure if a full system or not.

So I tested this engine on muffs a few months ago. It did not get any red triangle alarms. But cannot remember how long I ran it. Could water pressure from a garden hose make up for a marginal sea water pump?

I looked at the parts diagrams for both the FWC and RWC engines. And it looked to me that the closed cooling was both engine and exhaust manifold. They have thermostats on each side of the exhaust for the cooling water. In addition to normal engine thermostat. What are they for?

So I was thinking the risers get cooled with coolant like the engine and exhaust manifold with a full FWC but I think I am mistaken and the risers are always cooled with sea water whether RWC or FWC. The 441 DTC says exhaust manifold temperature but maybe they consider the riser to be part of...

V8-300 C-A. Serial number is A254685.

Remember both exhaust manifolds were almost the same temperature. Hard to believe both would be equally clogged.

It's factory FWC so I believe a full system not just the engine.

It's a 300 C-A.

So this is a factory FWC engine. The coolant should be circulating through the engine and exhaust manifolds and riser right? Should be close to same temp. The sea water should be dumped into the exhaust at back end of riser I thought? Sea water should not be cooling the exhaust manifolds or...

Trying to get my boat working properly this summer despite several setbacks. Started the engine and after about 10 minutes idling at the dock I heard a couple of alert beeps a minute or apart. Then continuing beeps. Turned off the engine and used my Diacom to read the codes. DTC 441 and 442...