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I am also concerned about screws into the ends of 12mm plywood. It has to bite and hold onto veneers of wood. Plywood is likely cheaper than solid lumber, which is maybe why the boat builders use it. It is also strong enough if it is intact, but that is the issue. I doubt SeaRay expected...

The plywood keel of my 18' SeaRay was stapled to the bottom of the skiwell. After some time the staples rusted away, the plywood keel fell over and the hull deformed. Since the keel was under the waterproof floor of the ski well, this should have never happened, but it did. Use Stainless...

There is nothing like sheetrock screws driven into 12mm plywood edge to inspire confidence in your rebuild. Will they pull out or rust out first?

Also, light FG cloth will bend around corners. Even medium cloth will bend, Using SS staples to hold it in place until the resin cures, can be useful.

Mike, so you think screws into the end of 12mm plywood will hold well, or are you not using screws to hold the plywood deck in place? Just curious.

It seems that you already know that the factory flywheel nut torque is what keeps the key from shearing. If you do not know the precise value, one of the Johnnyrude experts on this forum will know the answer. Post year and HP.

How many HP do you plan to hang on the transom? 115-150HP would be usual. Are you replacing the whole transom or patching the cut-out? If patching the cut-out, you might consider an aluminum transom plate to spread the stress of the OB motor. If replacing the transom, make sure the transom...

I like to use dry pressure treated dimensional lumber for stringers. If plywood gets wet, it fails very quickly. PT solid lumber will last for years if it gets wet. After the stringers are installed, foam up the cavities for hull strength and floatation. If you want a built-in fuel tank, it...

Just so you know, cast iron forms rust very easily, however, the rust helps protect the rest of the metal from corrosion. Clearly this helps only to a point as exhaust manifolds rust out. Blasting out old rust may help clean out the manifolds, however, it also disturbs the rust coating...

Backfire thru the carb is also a timing issue. My '88 had a mechanical advance on the distributor. I do not remember it ever sticking however. My Thunderbolt ign module did fail one nice Saturday afternoon in November, coming back from a fishing trip. The ign was absolutely dead, one moment...

Gee, if you can put it flat on the hull all it needs is to be wet. On my SeaRay, I needed to toss a cup of water into the bilge when first launched in the spring. The transducer stayed wet all season long

If you sprayed ether into the carb and she didn't pop, you have no spark at all. Check safety switch on shift cable and if that is good, troubleshoot ign system.

You can buy replacement gearcases for Merc V6's in different gear ratios. Most Mercs in the 70s and 80s (the 850 was the exception) used 2::1 gear ratio. It appears that Merc V6 motors used both 2::1 and 1.87 gear ratios. Why is that?

Yikes, I never heard of the enforcement actions like that. We have diesel here in NJ that is dyed or not to show it payed road tax. Marine diesel is not taxed the same way.

BTW- if you do mix non-dyed ND SAE-30 oil into your gasoline, like we did in the 60's and 70's, you can see it, but it is not obvious. In those days I was using a 24::1 mix in my Fatty, and that quart of oil gave the gasoline a greasy yellow color.

I generally use one of the syn blend Pennzoil TCW-III products. It works fine. I just wanted to try a full syn oil, for curiosity.

Gee, I would have expected the opposite.

FWIW, I think the year of your motor will be late 60s or early 70's. My '73 Merc had timing marks on the cowling, and the timing decal on the flexplate. My '77 had a timing pointer and timing decal on the flexplate. Your flexplate looks like it has a single timing mark, likely TDC. It...

Gee, getting the flex plate back on properly is child's play, if you have a timing mark for TDC. I do not agree that those 8 bolts are never to be removed. It is a lot easier to remove those and pull the stator, then to pull the flywheel bolt. You really need to know the year of the motor...

Jimmbo, 2 cycle oil in the 60's was often just non-detergent SAE-30 auto oil. Some were adding dye to it back then, but not everyone. We often ran cheap ND SAE-30 in my Fat-Fifty and Big Twin. I thought Sierra was very kind to me by providing prompt answers to my questions. They counseled...