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Welcome aboard, the main restoration section will have more input for you in the fiberglass area, we're just a bunch of tin heads here. To answer your question though, you have to remove the rub rail and any rivets that hold the cap on top of the hull. To get to the transom you have to remove...

That bow cleat is super cool! Yeah loosing that much power can be a couple things, dropping a cylinder or fuel delivery. At least with these carb motors it can only be fuel or fire.

My best guess would be 850 lbs boat motor and persons.

Welcome aboard, nice to see another old Holly up for some work to get her back on the waves. I'm curious about the bow, seems to be completely different than any I've ever seen.

Nice OB Chief! On the trailer personally I would start looking for a roached out glass boat of the same / similar length that has a good trailer, bonus if it's galvanized with no rust issues. Guys darn near give away their garbage glass boats to have someone else haul it off. Seeing that rust...

Movin right along, should be on the downhill side of things now. (y)

Mines an OB model but if the price is right snap em up. The area by the dog house should fit any size seat other than a large helm chair with arms.

The most common area for leaks is the keel plate as it takes the brunt of all the landings and is out front for whatever may come it's way. It's somewhat difficult to seal up properly so take you time in preparing the surfaces removing any crud or loose red smeg. leave the stuff that's stuck...

Yeah that keel strip chine is riveted on the bottom rather than formed like the other chines so it needs to have that drain hole. Some guys haven't asked and filled it in, so good on you for inquiring. (y)

Lots of variables out there with boats in all degrees of condition. Problem now days is that the majority of people do not take care of their things. I drove by a brand new Starweld that sat out all winter and summer in a driveway for a year before disappearing that never was covered rain or...

I wouldn't worry about it, in fact later years SC stopped putting that limber hole bend in the ribs. My V5 SS you can see no limber holes.

Welcome aboard. I have to assume you want as little work to do as possible on the boat and in that case even the barn find is going to have everything in it 40+ years old and deteriorating. What we all know when we restore these boats is that they're resale value far less even after all the...

Yeah I did the same with a freeway side stop n rob omw to Nebraska. Made it to my destination and the fuel pump went out shortly there after. Bad gas does bad things for sure.

That's an odd business model, tying up expensive employees dealing with normally rivet ignorant swaths of humanity rather than pushing out warehouse orders. :unsure:

Ethanol fuel drawing in moisture the culprit?

I use Nautolex vinyl deck covering, Defender has the best prices and selection.

Welcome aboard, not too many glass SC guys around this section so not a lot of advice will come your way. The general resto forum has a ton of knowledge about glass.

The PT application and no water run time does make it tough to read the plugs. You said that spraying the PT in the bottom carb didn't affect the idle and the 2 bottom plugs don't have the distinct light brown around the electrode. Something isn't right with the bottom 2 cylinders. Addressing...

Most times the keel seam is what leaks in these boats if there's no obvious damaged rivets. Finding a leaking rivet from the inside of boat through a hole in the deck would be the worst unless you knew it was right below the hole your making. Have you leak tested the boat by adding some water...

Lots going on here, could you pull the spark plugs, number them and take a pic? No idle change when spraying that PT could mean a couple things. Mainly thinking no fire due to a plug not firing which could mean the switch box dropped a cylinder. A spark test may be in order. Also after I do the...