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They made thousands of these motors.----No need for better screws at all.----Replace the gaskets.

All fuel must go through the " orifice plug " in the bottom of the float bowl.----Make sure it is CLEAN.

They used to ask me how I could afford to put gas into my 30' Scarab Sport for a short summer.-----I just said that overall, it is cheaper than a season pass at the golf club.----And I caught some fish to eat or give away.

Take these motors apart.

See post #2 and reply.----There was an overheat horn installed in the control box when it left the factory.----When you answer questions you can come up with solutions !

Throttle lever must be at slowest idle to take it out of gear and to allow recoil to be pulled..

Post the actual compression values here.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" on each of the 3 leads ?----Clean the carburetors.----A new to you motor should have a new water pump impeller installed as well.----Or at least test the overheat horn.

Apparently the fancy hydraulic " plank / boarding platform " is not sealed.-----It is just above the waterline.-------So if you have too many people cavorting in the back there may be a leak.-----A case of a greedy owner / captain ?----Credit card captain ?----Credit card passengers?

Many marinas / boat shops now have a dynamometer to accurately check power output.-----Marketing / production management also has a lot to do with the decals put on motors.----Some actually produce more power than stated on the decals.----Evinrude 100 XP was really a 115 marketed as a " powerful...

Hurry to a shop.-----Boat / small engine / motorcycle / automotive.-----Somebody can find a simple solution I think.

It is possible that the end of the low speed mixture screw twisted off.---Post a picture of the pointy screw Low speed mixture screw pointy end stuck in the carburetor ?

Make sure you have the plastic " guide tubes " in place , to help line up the water tubes.

Are you pushing the key IN and HOLDING it in while cranking it over ?-----Battery load tested ?-----All that cranking may have damaged the starter.----Take it apart for inspection.----Ohm test the armature.------Or outline your starting procedure in detail.

Has VRO oil consumption been tested / checked?----Lower unit gear oil checked / changed?----The gearcases on some of these are not robust in my opinion.----And have compression values been posted ?

Sometimes the screws for the replacement coils are too long.---Interfere with rotation.

In the early / mid 80's the motor rating was changed from power at the crankshaft to power at the prop.---So yes , an older motor had a higher number on the decals.

The " lean sneeze " is much mis-understood.----Adjust low speed mixture screws to get rid of it.----Most motors will sneeze a few times when cold.----Should disappear after 15/ 20 seconds after cold start.

Remove starter.-----Remove carburetor.----Remove reed valve plate.----Inspect reed valves.----Replace the 2 gaskets.----Re-assemble.

Chronic fouling would not be caused by a wee bit of leakage on float needles.----There must be other things to check out.

That switch prevents CRANKING ( turning of the starter ) with throttle open too far.----It does NOT prevent sparking.