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Is that a crack in the fiberglass in the corner of the transom? That is usually where the cracks start.

Maxrules has a model guide. All 4 cylinder 115HP motors have a letter prefix on the serial number. The older IL6 motors have numbers like yours.

My speedboat sits on a lift with bunks all season. It has one-part polyurethane topside paint on the entire boat, however, I never had even one blister. I think it is a non-issue.

Gee, Mike, I have never seen blistering on a trailered boat with bunks. Of course, a roller trailer eliminates that worry.

Antifouling paint on a trailered boat is not ideal, IMO. It will rob some speed, not look good and wrongly announce that the boat was kept in the water, which is bad for resale.

Look for the rating on the oil bottle. The Mercury oil you are using is very likely FC-W.

Yes, one part polyurethane paint is considered to be topside, but there are other topside paints which include enamel and other formulations. I believe polyurethane paint to be superior in shine and hardness to them. Their price is also higher.

Gee, it sounds like the carbs are dirty. Cleaning and rebuilding is in order.

Trailered boats do not need any paint on their bottoms. The gel coat from the factory is just fine. If you do not like the look of the gel coat, any marine polyurethane will make it nice and shiny, with the correct prep. If you use a one-part polyurethane, the boat cannot be kept in the...

Gee, I do not see the bend. I did see some pictures of your shop, plus some others I cannot id. However, if there is a bend in the cable and the cable end will not pass thru the tilt tube, you need to cut it off and pull out the stub.

Jim, there are two kinds of poly resin. Laminating resin (no wax) stays tacky after it sets. Finishing resin (with wax) gets rock hard. You can gelcoat over either, but sanding the finish resin is recommended. The gelcoat also comes in waxed and unwaxed. Unwaxed is used for the first coat...

Sure, It is easy with a remote control engine and a dashboard. First buy a tachometer that is compatible with your engine. Install it into the dashboard. Second, most remote controls have pigtails or a plug that will supply +12VDC, ground and tach signal. Hook those the the tachometer...

Fittings are usually molded into plastic tanks. If they swivel in a bushing, they might be able to be drilled out, but if rigid in the tank wall, removal will likely damage the fuel tank. I am assuming the third small hose is for a fuel return from the injector rails.

Heater hose maybe, but not marine rated fuel lines to my untrained eye.

Jim, you can think of poly resin w/o cloth as a good varnish. It will seal wood quite well. Of course like varnish, it will not bridge seams in the wood. So if you were to build a kayak of wood and seal it with poly resin, it would work fine, until the wood flexed and a joint opened a bit...

Antisiphon valve is in third picture, or at least that is a prime candidate, and where it is usually installed. Are those red hoses marine rated? They look like garden hose. You might look to see if they are still in good shape on the inside.

Worse comes to worse, see if you can buy used carbs, and transfer the jets over. There must be some junk motors like yours by now.

These guys have one https://www.seawaymarine.com/products/327558

Here it is... listed for a 2003 motor, but not a 1993 motor. They have one https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0327558

The parts list for that engine does not show a CCW gearcase or CCW gearcase parts. Unless you have twin motors, I am not sure why you would want a CCW gearcase. Even with twin motors, CCW is a nice to have, but not essential.