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Supposed to be 2 pieces...float and arm

Hard to tell as not backpressure on engine...exhaust pop could be backfire in exhaust tube.

Have them show you the receipt from rebuild. If it dont list new pistons it was just a refresh not a rebuild. Motor will be lucky to have over 110psi when cranking as usually around 90-95psi.

Crosshatching means nothing as they are microscopic. The cylinder has wear as the dark spot around exhaust port..this is from piston side thrust.

Reed blocks need replaced a labyrinth seal edges are hammered

Take a timing light and hook it to each org wire going to coils and see whch one/s are miss firing. You also need a DVA adapter as digital meter are to slow to catch a voltage flip. You should have seen the trigger voltage flip from + to-

PLUG...NGK ...B7HS PLUG GAP.... .024 IDLE IN GEAR RPM +/- 50....1200RPM WOT RPM......4500-5500 POINT GAP......... .014 TIMING: MAX. BTDC STATIC CRANKING......057 +/- .016 TIMING: BTDC RUNNING 18° GEARCASE CAP. ........2.6 FL. OZ

I have not had any of my customers that used that double stack pump with success

One side of stator could be dropping out.

Only if you change the midsection and clamp bracket assy.

Tis the gauge as all 3 are equal. Just start running Yammy Ringfree in your fuel every other tank.

Everything will swap..to make lower unit work will need to use old shift rod and linkage

Crankcase leak or seal issue. Since it stops after using it , thermal expansion will seal crankcase.

You need a 30 psi gauge as it will be 5-10psi at idle, and 18-22 at midrange with poppet cycling and 12-18 psi at 5K. A 15psi is for inline engines

Any gauge whether OEM or aftermarket made for a outboard will work. All you need is tach,pressure and fuel

toothpick

WAG.....1987

Disconnect the yellow wires at rectifier and retest

CDI's are not fused, you mean the rectifier/regulator?

That a Force with Merc ADI ignition...and the wire is blue not green.