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I have to agree.----For people that drive 3 hrs to get to the boat.---Then 1/2 hr or more to the cottage these motors are just not suitable.----New motors with local warranty / dealer support are a " no brainer" preferred option.------Some folks have lots of $$$ and no time , so they buy the...

Hook up a timing light one cylinder at a time.----Might help pinpoint which cylinder is the issue.-----Might be as simple as a bad sparkplug.----Or bad sparkplug wire.---Or loose connection / broken wire.

What is the total; $$$ amount spent so far with the parts cannon?----What actual trouble shooting has been done so far ?-----Revving on a hose in gear is still neutral and can be misleading you.

Test run with a portable tank and hose.

Drill 2 wee drain holes so rainwater cannot collect in the lower unit exhaust cavity.

With the price of new boats this work is worth doing.----But not everybody is up to the challenge.----Many hours of work with little sign of progress.

I would use pieces of plastic pipe in there.-----Ends closed off.------Saves on the amount of foam you need to buy.

Still not sure what motor is being discussed here..----In 1954 the electric start was not very common !!

They all left the factory with the battery charging system.----Have you done any testing to see if anything is wrong with yours ??

?????-----The coils on a 1954 Evinrude do not use 12 volts to make spark.-----In order to advance on this project, you should post some pictures.

Why did you ask , when you are set in ---" my way is best "----I would say a quick method with pins ( no tools ) is an improvement.

??----Situation resolved ?

There are many simple pins available to use on what was pictured in post #1----no tools required.

Local industrial supply might have some pins.----No need for tools to install / remove them.

From the parts book it appears to be a special bolt.----Makes sense that it prevents shift cam from being pulled up too far.----See post #5.

That bolt threads into the exhaust housing to hold gearcase at the back.-----Obviously that will need a heli-coil.-----There MUST be a local shop that can sort this motor out.

Keep turning and turning and pry it out.

After seeing this broken bolt ---that is not the issue.----Get the trim tab off !!

You cannot use a hone inside the tube until the steering rod is out.

There are 4 bolts ( item #66 ) he has 3 of them out with 1 broken off.------Now the one that is broken off could be jammed with aluminum oxide.----Heat can be applied there to possibly break up the corrosion products.