FORUM RULES UPDATED - The forum rules have been updated to continue to provide a friendly and safe environment for our member community. Please take a moment to review the updated rules and our terms of use and privacy policy. Click here for Forum Rules which has links to the 'terms of use' and 'privacy policy'.
In Other News . . .
You will notice a few enchancements to the forums to make your experience better. These include: Email Notifications, Thread Previews, Thread Starter Notation, and Emoji Options on the 'Like' icon. . .
Additionally, the merchant portions of the website have been updated and are now operational. . . . Check out iBoats for all your boating gear.
So, these pictures show how long the cracks are and how close they are to the transom skin.
Current thought is creating two bewels on each side of corner and then start building from the crack (essentially center of inside corner) with really thin strips of fiberglass (for which a sharp angle...
Yes these are great and the videos from Frisco (also JMink, Boatworks Today and some others) is the reason I feel confident in doing this and it's what I use as a guide. I have however not seen any inside corners being rebuilt in any of these even though I understand the same logic and method...
Yes, the transom was indeed compromised and the cracks are most likely due the resulting flex of the skin as you say.
My thought was that it would probably be enough just to add a layer of biax mat as I'm also replacing the core but now that I have it all open I'd rather completely grind the...
Hi!
I'm restoring an older motorboat that is very similar to a Sea Ray SRV 190 built with a hardtop (very obscure Swedish brand). Apart from a new paint job the transom needs to be rebuilt. After lurking the forums during the winter I've finally started the transom rebuild.
I've removed the...
