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Can you clarify? It sounds like you have a ign keyswitch on the dashboard, and want to go to a side mount control ign keyswitch, and abandon the dashboard ign keyswitch?

Gee, I bought a brand new 4400# galvanized trailer for $3K, a few years ago.

Item 20 https://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury/oem-parts/outboard/1993/1135412nd/throttle-lever-and-shift-shaft?ref=22

Yes, it is a swinging cover. If it broke, and I could not replace it, a single piece of wire across the throttle cable would hold the cable in place easily.

I can find it for my '93 150HPV6. When I look at the '93 75HP models, I have not found one without a tiller handle, which changes the linkage. I presume your's is not a tiller model?

That hole is too large to be a drain. Those are more like 1/4". I agree with Scott. Leaf Springs often have rivets holding the leaves together. These rivets can fit into matching axle holes, helping the locate and affix the springs to the axles.

You might want to get an exact year and post the type (ADI, battery powered CDI) of switchbox you want on those sale sites. A part number would also help. I don't know of any Merc 120HP OBs from 1979.

My '98 Johnny 150HPV6 has an intermediate orifice on the carb or throttle body. They are open to the air. Give it a blast of spray solvent and see if that works. It is a brass tube under the air box.

I know just a little about windlasses. The ones I have seen do not allow shackles between the chain and rode. They use a chain/rope splice. It does not have the same chafe resistance as the line thimble and shackle. I would recommend you check it often and if so, monitor it for chafe. e.g...

So you plan to replace an existing gauge with the depth gauge? Which one?

Speedos are usually based upon water pressure. The pickup (pitot tube) often kick up. You might see if you have the speedo on the transom. As for the trim gauge. They measure variable resistance. Any resistance in the wiring will throw off their accuracy.

You can repair it as you described in post #5. It is much harder than fixing from the inside, however, both will work.

most fish finders also have temp readings

Mary-Kate on/off works real good on hull stains. wear gloves

You could buy a new connector and put it on the fitting when not using the tank. Simply plug the fuel nipple on the new connector. That could seal the tank. Pop it off and connect the fuel line when you want to use the fuel in the tank.

Gee, will it turn over with the spark plugs removed, using a wrench on the main pulley? Fire extinguisher dry chemical is both course and caustic to metal. If the carb sucked some of it in, or some went into the exhaust port, it could be gumming up the works.

It is "leaking" from the place where the fuel comes out. When you connect the fuel line, that plunger unseals the tank, allowing the fuel to flow into the fuel line. I do not know if there are repair kits for the fitting itself.

OK, the voltage seems OK. It still makes sense to put a voltmeter on the battery and check for AC voltage there. Some of the alternator diodes could be shorted.

So, you are going to let your kid drive a car with 150K miles w/o checking the brakes and wheel bearings? If you are in the rust belt, a visual check of the suspension and suspension support structures is in order, IMO.

I would check the alternator, as the diodes usually blow when the battery is disconnected. It should be as simple as checking for AC voltage at the battery when the engine is running. If no AC voltage, check for DC voltage rise as RPM increases, to confirm alternator is charging.