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However most inboard engine manufacturers recommend running at 75% of redine or approx 3500 rpm. If you do that, and make sure the boat reaches the specified max RPM & doesn't run hot, use good oil that doesn't break down...you should get at least 2,000 hrs if not a lot more. Also regardless of...

The main thing about the hull truth is it is biased toward ultra expensive salt water fishing boats with (to me at least) overpriced outboard power. If you run an I/O some think you're part of a failed cult or something, but in a large part of the USA and Canada as well I/Os are fine to use...

Same I don’t get ads have been there as long as I’ve been here…since 2002…

Yep the only way to know is to run a virgin oil analysis. I have a 98 Jeep with a flat tappet cam (4.0 six) and it’s been run on Valvoline max life 10/30 for years. And no issues with the cam or lifters at 182,000 miles..this oil has like 750-800 ppm of Zinc..on the Jeep boards they are always...

if Volvos spec is a full syn straight weight oil my guess is that they are concerned about the oil breaking down and losing viscosity. In that case I’d use the Mercruiser/Quicksilver 25/50 syn blend. It is probably the best oil they sell (expensive too) and has significantly more zinc (this I...

You can also use the Mercruiser 25/40 conventional or syn blend. I have used both & done oil analyses and they hold up well to marine use…

The nice thing about replacing them is that Barr includes everything you need….however if you have the left overs any good hardware store shouid be able to match them up….

If you ever have to do this job again, try heating the areas on the manifold where the bolts thread in before even trying to loosen them, or just run the motor on the water hose, let it get hot, then (carefully!) drain the manifold, and go at it. Running it will heat the area around the bolts...

They don't look clogged, the main thing is you can't really tell if they will seal until you re-surface the sealing surfaces and measure them for flatness with a straight edge and feeler gauges (less than .003" variation). For the busted bolt stub, try heating the area around it and see if that...

23 years with an OMC Cobra and always used OEM impellers/housings and bellows and not one problem with either. In fact the OEM bellows last in excess of 10 years! Impellers I usually change every 3 seasons.

So far then we see your top hot exhaust system was low raw water flow!

Sounds like it’s time to do all of them

https://leadersrpmshop.com/marine-parts/volvo-penta/ I have bought OMC parts from this vendor on Amazon, that's about the only one I'd trust, and only when I can't get it locally. I have a local marine shop I go to and he can order OEM Merc, OMC or Volvo parts plus he can get me Barr exhaust...

Don't buy any mission critical boat parts from Amazon, use OEM for impellers, bellows, carb rebuild kits, etc. Unless you know the seller is legit it is a gamble.

good catch! this is the Achilles heel of I/Os, just too many places to leak water!

It’s good to know that because for some that’s the only option.

When you take ‘em apart goggle VP elbow gasket replacement; they came out with updated gaskets & instructions to use a copper based sealer. Also forgot to mention that if they look good the manifolds should be tested for pinhole leaks by propping them up level and filling with Acetone instead of...

I looked again at the pic of the manifold/elbow joint & you can see moisture oozing out. Def a problem there! You don’t want clogged elbows etc but also if they are leaking on the inside that can put water in cyls; rust exhaust valves etc.

If you can find this document it might help: Volvo Penta Overheat Diagnosis; is explains exactly how to solve overheating issues via testing & process of elimination. If you can find it I think it will help a lot! If you used an Amazon impeller I’d replace with OEM. I always use OEM for...

I think everyone with an I/O boat thinks/worries about this and the way I have dealt with it is to: Pull drive at the end of each season to inspect bellows, replace when any sign of small cracks are seen Keep drive down as much as possible to minimize stress on bellows Get an agreed value...