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AS Horigan said, there is still a vent under the cover. In fact, you need to leave that open while you fill from the bottom.

That right there points to your impeller. At higher speeds, water is forced into the drive and the impeller blades flatten out so they are actually doing less. At low speeds where the impeller does more work, it is not pumping enough water.

Risers look fine to me.

You can also just pull the vent plug and fill until it comes out there. It will give you the proper level that way. Drive has to be level of course.

What muffs are you using? Turning the water on full I hope? Correct me if I am wrong but the Blue flush port is after the impeller. There should be no water going out your drive inputs when using the flush port. You need to pull your impeller.

Normal for one side to be hotter. Next time you are in the water testing, put the engine at 100RPM. Remove the hose at the thermostat housing and output the water from that hose into a bucket for exactly 15 seconds. Should get around 2 gallons of water or so.

I was kinda glad UCLA didn't lead at halftime. They usually lose when that happens.

Great game Bruins. On to BYU

Are you in salt water?

Does your bow thruster remain in the water for long periods of times....like overnight? Do you boat in saltwater? If either of these questions is no, I wouldn't worry about it.

No sealant is necessary. Read the instructions that comes with the bellows as sometimes their instructions change over time.

I use a strap. Was tired of all the cable issues including the starands and the cable getting stuck on itself. These days, I only use the winch once a year on each of my trailers and they don't have to be pulled very far up the trailer thankfully.

You should start your own post/thred with your issue.

His pump only uses the o-ring...the paper gaskets aren't used. The 1346 is a kit I actually used on my belt driven Volvo pump. It is used for many versions both belt driven and crank driven whiuch is why it comes with paper gaskets as well as the o-ring.

I am getting part number 21951348. Maybe the same kit that Alldodge had too. EF is the important part of the model number for your engine...

The latest tool I bought that I don't need is a 3D printer.... ...and a Rinda Diacom....hopefully really never needed.

Doesn't your signature have a few elements of the antiquated system in it? Just sayin'

All you have to do is make sure the engine is at TDC and the camshaft is aligned correctly. The shaft that rotates the distributor can be compensated for by rotating the distributor when you time the engine.

I was an amuteur the first time I replaced one of these. Fortunately, the B21 is a non interference engine so pretty hard to eff it up and damage anything.

I have done many of these on the same engine in the Volvo auto. It's probably the easiest timing belt I have ever come across. There are alignment markers on all the pulleys and typically on the belt too. Pretty hard to screw up.