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unbalanced prop?

http://ww2.iboats.com/Carburetor/dm/cart_id.659578542--session_id.320807745--view_id.1537019 #15. & Clear every passage under the top gasket.

very readable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203108313608?hash=item2f4a32ea08:g:euMAAOSw6OlfYnTF

^^good point.

and the point of taking in the assembly (which you remove) is to find a clip to fit! Good luck to you.

Remove the follower and roller assembly and take it in with you. Find a clip to fit that way. The marine clip is a $7 part.

had no success looking for a replacement box (kind of enjoy the search....) The old Power Pilots had a red plug. Thinking that might work for you if that connection is what your 60 needs. I couldn't even come up with one of those tonight, but they are out there. Maybe Flying Scott can...

The replacement controller should have the red connector. Price out the adapter -- may be the cheaper way to go.

thanks FR -- as long as the OP knows that. Think he has the idea that the pump provides cooling on an as-needed basis. It is indeed pretty simple.

(but the water pump impeller spins and pumps with the driveshaft. It is not temperature controlled.)

might look for a used controller for the 60hp motor, for use as is, or try to restore the older controller with one you find for parts.

A stand helps keep the carb from sucking in exhaust gases. A box fan doesn't hurt either while testing engine.

gearcase oil been drained and replaced? exhaust blockage somewhere -- pull off the lower, and look up under and around the powerhead for blockages, blockages at the exhaust water outlet above the prop.

sounds good -- but need more water!

also wonder what "locks up" means. Oil mix is 24:1. Top of the cylinder head should never be too hot to touch. Do not test using muffs -- barrel or in the lake. Water depth as indicated above. As a rule of thumb, i like the water level about half way up the shaft.

good success story! Pics always welcomed/appreciated.

Most of the motors I still have are '50s/'60s magneto motors. I routinely fully rebuild the magnetos, and used to have a fairly refined cost estimate -- less than $150US, I think, maybe including a fresh impeller as well. Well worth it, imo.

Good luck with it! One fix at a time.

Those mix adjustments are small. Like 1/8 turn and then let the motor catch up. (wasn't referring to gap itself -- method(s) for setting it. But sounds like you have it right.)

Reset the points by setting the rub rail at the highest point of the cam -- will be the point at which the points open widest. Set to .020. Rotate the mag plate 180 degrees clockwise and repeat with the other set of points. See if that works out better.