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Yes would also agree the fuel line looks factory.

Can't tell you about your questions but would look at the Holley carb on it to make sure it is a marine carb. Can grab the numbers of the airhorn or post a pic of the carb. I think normally all Holley Marine carbs have J tube bowl vents that are pretty obvious on if flame arrestor is removed...

post #1 second paragraph -was working on a stringer now has 2006 Tahoe/ 4.3 MPI

Yes, I'm sure you are still happy with your beta max as well... Seriously if you don't mind cleaning and gaping them there is no issue. Its only if you dont know what a dwell meter is that it is a problem

So are you installing it?

On points yes , on thunderbolt the trigger wheel is part of the rotor

Riser drain into the manifolds. Sounds like you got it right as long as you drain and prob. Yes 4 gallons or so in the block

Did you drain the block too don’t know exactly where they are on your ford but will have drain plugs on either side of the block

yes thermostat must be open but if it were me just drain the block and associated systems vs running AF. If really want to do AF to do it right you need to drain it first otherwise too much risk of diluting the AF

there should be block drains on either oil pan rails, drain them there will be some sort of drain plug on bottom of each exhaust manifold drain those, and pull bottom of big J hose on circ pump. Never have done a log manifold as they were before my time but pull the hoses on thermostat and...

Most of the free sites get shutdown for (understandable) copyright infringement. Best bet is to determine what manual number covers your engine and look on ebay for a used copy. this is for the 351 version but I think has the diagram you are looking for . you have to expand the window to see...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155867165235?hash=item244a683233:g:qU0AAOSwCXdlRREI&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4NXDmm5iHBj3k%2B6y2yJon8dI1%2FdGWNNRGlFf8Pp%2Bb9RfqQx6nGef%2Feqh1jDqna6Jeq%2FzMPMW9eTMopqs3idWUt5i3iB17OsPKe%2B5ygsOh36SowqnFOICMZLH48iozSrDIVTM%2Frk3B97YbpAax3lY63qMx%2FnG2sa6qB8oJcJMB%2BsTQ%2F7TTbG...

You seem to hear mixed comments on pertronix componenets. Why not get a used TB distributor as BT suggested? Seems simplest solution Additionally can you just put a nut on the backside of where the thread is stripped? Maybe not the most elegant solution but it cap just has to hold the cap on

Yes work on the alignment -you should never have to pound the alignment bar in. What do the witness marks of grease look like? that is key to know if you need to move the front of engine up or down. I would look through the gimbal into the coupler as you may have damaged it pounding the bar...

The fuel coming up and dribbling off of boosters is evidence of float bowl overflowing bad or misadjusted needle and seat/float, or too much fuel pressure. Until engine is running fuel pump should only be running when starter is cranking. Get a good carb kit from a place like mikes carb and...

Would also check input shaft seal is not leaking lube into the bellows and eventually the bilge

On my sea ray 170/3.0 I used to run michigan vortex 4 blades- 16” for skiing, 18” for everything else. both really worked nice for the price.

what about it is not rebuildable? Willing to bet that with some guidance you can properly rebuild it. anyone here who says they haven’t re-rebuilt a carb is FOS… my success rate improved by getting a ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight used it with both carb cleaner and also simple green in...

That is on old holley power valves not Rochester derivatives. the newer holley power valves are not susceptible to backfire damage anyways .

normally those are a tight fit between baseplate and throttle shaft. When restoring carbs some better rebuilders will bush the throttle shaft to seal. On a new carb this should not be send it back and rebuild the oem carb or have it rebuilt by someone competent. This is the rub with these...