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What if the trailer frame blocks access to the transom? The back bar runs almost directly under such (to the point that the boat doesn't sit on the rearmost keel roller, which instead hits the front of the outdrive near the bottom of trim swing). The bow/winch bar is as far back as it can go...

Yes, but I'm trying to work out how best to do that given the weight of the boat back there and the close spacing of the existing bunks. I'd have to either support it by the keel with a V-notched hunk of wood or with two blocks very far from the stringers. Maybe somehow use a wood block and a...

Prop came in. Will need to swap anode to clear... But that and a fresh tab washer are on order. For now, I tried trimming with my oscillatory saw: Kinda rough, so for now it's a placeholder. The new anode is an offset variety:

Might have to pull the boat after all... As apparently one of the long bunks is rotten: The rot tapers off pretty quick but does pass under the transom a bit. The other three by ks seem OK but yeesh... Maybe I ought to keep an eye out for another trailer after all. Or at least plan on doing...

What if I cut the worst of it out with the saw (the split wood only goes to the edge of the rim), drilled the end of the cut, feathered/beveled the split, then JB welded that? (Red cut and drill, yellow is feather/bevel area). Trying to see if there is anything I can do with current...

Would a bead of JB weld on the bottom of the crack area suffice as a temporary fix at least? The only grinding tools I have at home are an angle grinder and an oscillatory saw, neither of which feels like the right tool. A die grinder with a carbide burr would be ideal but that's not something...

While replacing some bungee cords on my bow riding seats, I found a stress crack in the seat opening: Specifically the crack radiating from the hull edge (the other is just in the Gel coat AFAIK). It goes all the way through the wood and inner glass. How should I mitigate this? Not looking...

Socket came in. Had to open the hole a bit with my oscillatory saw and file (due to being of the newer style) but it did otherwise fit up: Since I didnt need to fill holes, then no need to bother pulling the old pitot hardware... For another day.

Didn't know the combustion chamber size was different, I was thinking more along the lines of bigger valves flowing more/better. Duh. Cam is the stock one Mercruiser installed. 351W firing order. Here are the supposed specs on the 888 in stock form (225 supposedly is the stock 4-barrel...

I've been through the rest of it. Ignition was stock and why it was marooned in the first place; I upgraded from points to Pertronix Ignitor/Flamethower (still using the stock Prestolite marine distributor) per a prior post. Starter is a newer PMGR-type but is in fact marine rated (I did redo...

Carb/Intake upgrade: Edelbrock Performer 289 intake (it's freshwater only, so no worries), 1" carb spacer/PCV hookup, and a Holley Marine 4160 carb, factory tuned for a Mercruiser 5.0 (Chevy 305?). Previous owners had the same setup other than running a non-marine 4160 off a 1970's ford...

I am assuming that we're talking actual WOT RPM and not "designed" RPM. The latter is hard to say since the engine isn't 100% stock (likely putting out over 200HP, but I don't have dyno data on such) ; the redline is at 5000RPM per the original tachometer. As for the former: If I had a prop I...

Wrong blades... forgot that despite the comprop box having an "L" in the part number, it's actually an RH prop. I actually need RH blades. Working on getting that straightened out (the seller has 8 RH 1418A-4 blades for sale, so I'll buy all of them so I have a complete spare set).

Figured it out... yeah, I want A-series since that's all they make in my size. LH rotation too. Found a deal on an NOS hub (MA4) and 5 blades (1418A-4LH). Saved a fair bit compared to factory direct... ;) Will try... it's a hair larger (14" vs 13.7") but everything else matches.

May have found a used one off an '88 Celebrity that's the correct screw pattern and looks very similar. $37 after shipping, but unless I find an NOS one like it, that'll be what I do. The internals are slightly different (newer style) but that's not a bad thing...

I thought to go through the lock you needed 50 feet of rope... And some other requirements. Also, I thought the reservoir downstream had more issues with zebra mussels and silver carp? Or am I reading DNR maps wrong? I did look at the New Albany ramps (where I used to live andy parents still...

Another outing yesterday. Somewhat unplanned because of some work schedule shenanigans (needed for part of a holiday-shutdown project, but when my part takes place gets pushed back as prior steps of the project hang up). Hit up Duffy's Landing in Jeffersonville IN. Great ramp, but the docks are...

Ah... Gotcha. Noob ratdude strikes again. Will do some more digging... Maybe I'll get lucky like I did with the fuel filler and find something NOS that fits without redrilling. Trying to keep things looking period correct if possible.

What about filling the hole and putting some sort of appropriate sticker over it? By PB, you mean lead? As in pouring in molten lead the same way they pour lead into wooden fish decoys?

Reviving this thread since I've had a few outings under my belt and on the last one (3rd), I did find some prop damage: There had been an undocking incident where my wife backed into deadwood (mostly wrecked the stern light, but that's another story). Not sure if that's what broke it or what...