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Well, the motor is perfect, silent at all rpms. It doesn't have the low end of the 40hp, but it does 25mph. Takes a little more to get it on plane, but it cruises at 15ish mph. I didn't bother with the trim much since I kind of forgot it was there

I don't recognize it, and the picture is a little too up close perhaps.. Looks air cooled to me, It might be an Eska or other that use a Techumseh/ Power Products power head but a picture of the whole thing would be better

JB Weld is machinable, meaning you can tap it if you need to

This is what I came up with. Not perfect but it's pretty nice for what it is. The button is the horn button. I left room to space for a matching volt meter although, that is over redundant. Both the stereo and the GPS fishfinder ( Striker 4 ) will display voltage.. My cell phone has decided...

5.0L would get a 1.62 or a 1.47 from Mercruiser, but the tipping point was 200hp or over.. I would agree that a 1.62 would work better. You can run a higher pitched prop, rather than a prop with more slip

I think iboats does

That's what I was thinking. When it came set off center, I wasn't sure

The model number plate should be on starboard side near the helm and will have the HP rating. Sure looks like a Holiday 18.. The weight is without outboard as that is variable. Max on that hull is 120hp. You won't need that for a fishing boat, but within 70% of that would be workable

I don't think his motor has a tilt tube, and would probably have an external tilt tube adapter to use the single cable steering, before it was commonplace. Uflex makes a transom mount steering tube for this purpose as far as I can tell, which costs about $110 and the part number is S39

Where should the annode tab be pointing? Right out of the box, the rear edge i pointing to starboard. I think that's right based on prop rotation and torque, but I don't know if it's ballpark adjusted in the box or just slapped on because you adjust it based on the boat. I've never rigged a...

I think they are welded, however they are cheap

careful inspection.. One tell tale is discoloration around the bilge drain.. Cracks in the transom, bows. Bolts that appear to be squishing in. An owner will never let you drill a 1/4" hole to check for dry shavings but that is the 100% test. A moisture meter might not even tell the tale

exactly

I've done the same to some I have.. A cool way to make a vent is a tire valve stem with the core pulled.

Well, the Yamaha has basically a jet ski engine ( big one ). It will have some sort of a charging stator, and not an alternator I don't think. It will be limited charging while the boat is running, probably under 20A. That said, unless your blasting music for 8 hours without it running, or...

does nothing. A rotten deck, or transom can pass a 'tap test' very easy

The old Ford stuff they really won't work on usually so it's not surprising. The serial number won't do much for you as far as that goes. You have a 351W, so there isn't much available

And really, the condition of the deck and transom of the boat.. Given the year and motor choice, it's a Bayliner or one of it's cousins

E10 pump 87

I was referencing loopers and such. There are many ways that 2 strokes scavange/ run. The Force uses the oldest way. It's not the most efficient but they run good