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The power to trim motor doesn’t go through the 50 amp breaker on the 12 v system ( normally mounted on engine on mercruisers)

if you have compression, fuel, and spark i should cough or run momentarily… especially if u dump a little gas down carb , or starting fluid like u tried. So im thinking spark is too weak to fire it off. get a cheap spark gap tester like this...

Would think you have a weak spark or no compression As a sanity check do a cold compression check to make sure there are no dead cylinders Also check with spark gap tester that you are not loading spark from coil to distributor to plugs You can retime it by putting at tdc on 1 cylinder or...

Double check this on the drop down menu for your engine there are two thermostat housing assembly listings split by serial number OLxxx and up is 160 thermostat i have a 160 thermostat and engine runs about 170 per gauge …

Yeah i wonder if casting is porous maybe you can clean and slather with permatex #3 or similar to test

Put the hose back on or replace with new. This is the water supply hose up from drive. Hook it back up. Make sure water is coming up from outdrive to thermostat housing. Should have 3 qts every 15 seconds or so. would just look for melted rubber components on exhaust(rubber boots and shutters)...

i think you probably have other fish to fry first. a properly set up points system is as good as electronic except it needs annual maintenance in terms of cleaning and setting the dwell.

They all run great in the driveway with no load on them. Would try the remote tank and likely a fuel contamination issue .

The hissing noise is the TKS valve in the carb. It should hiss on cold starts until engine gets up to speed. the tks system uses a enrichment valve to fatten up cold start mixture vs a conventional choke. The whole idea is a work around so folks who have never driven a carburated car dont have...

Yes it is a diesel oil but is fine for gas use. When I repowered in 2016 it is what Michigan motorz required for warranty

My swag would be the 11.5” just based off all the the older OBs like that I ran had lower pitch props like 9,10, or 11” I would definitely take the 14” with you and swap out if you are way off. Would be worth getting a tach to see Where you land. I have a wireless tach & kv meter that is great...

That guys awful cocky about the advice after posting about carb timing …. Kind of like giving driving directions to Ray Charles over the phone …

As AD suggested verify with a IR thermometer Since it is a new to you boat do you have any receipts of when raw water pump impeller was last done ?

There really shouldn’t be any warpage on the manifold to elbow sealing surface. If you see daylight under a it I would file them or have a machine shops mill them flat. When u pressure test the cooling system be interested to see if u have an intake gasket leak or pinhole under the thermostat

Does it change when you turn drive or change trim position Could also be gimbal bearing or u joints

Yours will have balance shaft and roller lifters Look at Michigan motorz https://www.michiganmotorz.com/4-3l-vortec-marine-engine-1996-current

Use power tune behind the rubber couplings for some slide. I was able to slide mine down the wye pipe and spin the down elbows off without taking the riser elbows off

If lowering the float doesn’t fix it I believe the spring loaded needle and seat was used to combat flooding issue. That and the non spring loaded needle and Seat have two different float levels but might be worth trying an oem quality spring loaded needle and seat. Obviously by changing it out...

Im sure that will be fine . If you are looking to save a few bucks on oil use Rotella T4 15w40 Conventional. Its fine for marine use and is about as inexpensive as they come

Probably a lean sneeze due to running lean . Would look at fuel supply and carb rebuild. What do the spark plugs look like ? Would bet they look lean