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picky? I think we got a bunch of bored guys waiting for spring , or maybe ran out of beer.... yes correct but we will correct for current in the slip calcs later on....

pretty sure that is the oem manifold and made by GM. That is the only cast iron 4 bbl manifolds I have seen for the 4.3 Edlebrock manifold also seems to be single plane with a partial divider as well. Both like like each side of the carb is essentially feeding 3 cylinders I think until you...

If you are running a engine driven sea water pump with a through hull fitting for water pick up, then yes you want the hose to be cut in bellows area so impeller in drive is pushing water through the drive and out the cut hose to cool it. Engine driven pump will cool the engine separately.

Yes I believe so. Even if the bolt holes need to be filled and re-drilled the transom cutout if the same. @Bondo can you confirm

When you run a belt driven raw water pump on an alpha , you are supposed to cut the water supply hose in the bellows area. The drive impeller still needs to be maintained to push water through the drive to cool it. Usually this is done if closed cooling is added.

Cobra and Merc Alpha and Bravo use the same transom cutout. OMC was so far behind Merc in sales they wanted the cobra drive to be easy for boat manufacturers to use interchangeably with merc so they used the same hole. If you have the Chevy 5.7 complete it will be easier but hard to say if all...

In addition to Teds comments - when you remove the plugs it should easily turn by starter or by hand. If it is locked up after removing plugs, pull the drive as it could be an issue with drive, gimbal bearing, or u joints as well. If you have to pull the drive an it is still locked up then...

Sure but better than the dash dreamometer for prop slip cals

A new block may be cheaper … seriously hope it turns out well

As others have mentioned what is your current WOT rpm ? What mph are you getting on GPS and what is the current prop? Is it a basic Aluminum black max or similar ? Is you engine in a good state of tune - no performance issues? I have a 21 ft sea ray with a 5.0, I have a 4 bbl carb vs your efi...

My 2004 sea doo has a pee hole on side of hull below your left foot. Water comes out a bit at idle and hard and fast when at speed. This means cooling water is circulating. If your wear ring is worn the amount getting pushed out will be less. You may have a blockage somewhere. i belive this port...

Would put a core plug in and pressure test the cooling system, but unless the water got in the crank case another way its heavily pointing to a cracked block. look at block just below the head on manifold side bet you will see a crack there and on manifold as well. if rest of boat is in good...

If a freeze plug was pushed out it likely froze from lack of winterization

Instead of posting on a 5 yr old thread you will get better results starting a new thread with a description of your problem

Not passing any judgement

I thinking it’s a typo and he swapped a gen ONE bell housing and gen ONE drive on which bondo thought he could do with a little head scratching Be interested to see how the bellows worked out as gen one and two are diff drive bellows

The US single flare and double flare are completely different fittings, same with metric bubble flare. I would use the marine fuel hose from amazon you mentioned .

A switch and a sender are two different things. A switch like the oil pressure switch used for the alarm circuit will be open when the pressure is above the set point ( 4 or 7 psi). When it is below the setpoint like when starting or ignition is keyed on but engine is not running, the switch...

How did you test them? Would think you need to apply different pressures and see if the ohms change , dont know the ohm range off hand but usually if you ground tge sensor wire gauge should peg one way or other

Would also add the fill and drain screws, seals on those dont always get changed not sure if you have to take the water pump off to get driveshaft seal checked in the lower