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??----Using the flywheel as the timing fixture is easier.----No need to remove condenser either.-----This whole procedure is easier if you understand the concept.-----Started doing this timing back in 1968 at a Johnson dealer.----Still in business today.

Information added to post #4

Use the cam screw to adjust them so they open as the timing fixture goes between those 2 marks.----When the timing fixture is at those two marks the point are just OPENING.----They are NOT at 0.020" there.----You should not have to fiddle with carburetor needles to start this motor.-----In good...

It does not matter where pistons are !!-----Is the cam upside down ?-----How did this motor run for you last season ?----Setting the points with the timing tool is easy.----And throttle position does NOT matter at all.-----You are timing the opening of the points relative to the coil.----Other...

Does the tell tale hose come off the side of the block or was it moved to the top of the block?----Per a service bulletin in 1994.----Latest water pump kit has the details.

The splined connection just slips apart.-----No tools required to disconnect the shift shaft.

If too much current goes through that assembly the bimetallic strip heats and opens the circuit ---trim motor stops before it is destroyed.

I believe those parts are a " thermal overload " device.-----Not a good idea to move wires and guessing.

Part #9 and the balls are a detent assembly.----Likely not visible and best left alone.

Looks like a 1995 model.-----Sea Pro often offered without oil injection or electric start.

Check all pins / sockets on plug in connecters.-----Run with a timing light one cylinder at a time.----Might find the cylinder that is losing spark.

Make 100% sure that gearcase in in neutral.------Have control in neutral.----As you assemble make sure that gearcase is still in neutral.-----The spring loaded clutch dog can jump into forward.

The pieces shown in the above picture are from a water pump impeller.----In the parts pictures the water guides in the block are called " deflectors" .----Items are required and 2 of one part and 1 of the other.

???

What do you mean by ---" tube above that point "----Please explain.

???-----There is a simple grommet halfway up the exhaust housing.----You slide the water tube out.----Cut off 5 "-----Slide the water tube back in.-----Elegantly simple.

On this 1975 model 25 HP it is a simple 10 minute job to shorten / re-instal the water tube.----Powerhead does not have to come off !!!

I used to go to the local landfill.------Picked up a few repairable gas powered lawnmowers there.-----Have seen a few electric lawnmowers ( 115 volt and battery ) as well.----Funny things is a week later the electric ones are still there.

When the motor left the factory there were 3 rubber pieces installed in the block.-----They guide water around for proper cooling.------Are those 3 pieces installed now ??

Install 3/ 4 packing washers.----Tighten the packing follower to jam the packing on the needle.----Simple in my opinion.