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the last thing to rot after the transom and stringers is the floor. I would be willing to bet that a test drill into the stringer results in finding wet & rotting wood inside them.

is the drive still an electric shift drive?

what are you looking for? the method for getting the controls into neutral only? or the method for priming the fuel system prior to cranking? I believe (and @southkogs or @kenny nunez ) can correct me since its been about 40 years since I operated an OMC electric shift.. with main handle in...

your 233 is a ford. you need a marine starter for a 351. you are describing starters for GM based motors. you should just bite the bullet and replace the lower shift cable.

pull your drive and inspect the alignment and u-joints (this is part of annual maintenance)

use sno bowl toilet cleaner from the dollar store. also, coat liberally with dawn dish soap. let it sit over the oil stain for an hour or so, then scrub and rinse.

it has a gauge. you were taught to look at the gauges every 7-10 seconds when you got your drivers license.

I think wellcraft used teleflex gauges which is now VeeThree (sold thru Sierra)

Anything over 180 is an overheat Running hot is lack of water flow. Bravoitis limits water flow. Remember, your exhaust is a bunch of rubber hoses that melt around 250. As your water flow diminishes, the exhaust temps go from 200ish to 1100idh

Get everything from a newer boat. Everything between the prop in the back forward to the pulley on front or the motor.... Including wiring, controls, etc

What specific model number? If this is EFI, the ECM controls the relay

If your boat has a 4.3 in it, it was transplanted. The 4.3 came out in 1985

clean it out with denatured alcohol after you clean it out with filtered water and you should be good. the battery may or may not survive.

I personally would get a 1992 or later prop to pully setup to get the newest drive and motor combination.

No problem. We see it all the time on the forums

Yes. Should fill a 5 gallon bucket in 15-19 seconds with motor at 1000 RPM. Should shoot a good 8"+ up when holding the hose vertical However before proceeding since you stated you have water flowing from the raw water pump. Pull the thermostat housing apart and clean the blockage

Then you have had better luck than I have Mine failed in everything. Didn't matter if it was a car or boat

Pull the thermostat assembly and remove what ever is blocking it. If you have water coming from the raw water pump to the thermostat housing, you should have water to the exhaust as that is a straight shot unless there is a blockage or there is no flow from the raw water pump Running your...

Well.... We know it's not a NASCAR boat..... those would only turn left

Personally I would stick with points vs ever considering Pertronix again