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absolutely worth the cost

Contact them I think the jets are the same as for the rochester 2 jet as they share a common lineage. A 1.55 mm = .061 "

No shared batteries or charging system via shore power?

Did you try googling it ?https://www.google.com/search?q=mikes+carb+parts&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS915US918&oq=mikes+carb+parts&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i22i30i457j0i22i30l2j0i390l3.4123j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 heres the site https://www.carburetor-parts.com/

The internal bore is the important part as that is what meters the fuel so no the messed up slots wont hurt it. Just make sure any loose pieces are gone ... You need to modify two screw drivers - for the jet grind the tip down so it is fat enough and thick enough to fit in right. For the power...

Hey we're bored because we can't get out on the water ( or at least those up north)... I'm waiting for this to turn into and oil thread

The big water box is the intake/exhaust manifold. In 20 years of owning my 3.0 (bigger sibling to the 2.5) I almost never got any water out of the manifold, not sure if it would siphon out or if the boat wasn't level etc . Wouldn't worry about that... the chunks are normal for raw water cooled...

I had the same experience selling my old boat - 25 years old at the time, and my dads old sailboat - Sold both on craigslist... advertised it as everything works will water test... didn't even ask me to start it...had a wad of $100's. My dads sailboat - had 2 interested in it sold it for a tad...

Looks like the through gimbal and the QD for the inside you also need the poppet valve for between the drive and bellhousing if inside parts needed...

Yeah i was gonna say this is taking being a frugal boater a little too far… as bondo says you can use just about anything . I got a gallon of hydraulic oil for $12 same specs as what merc sells for alpha gen 2 , lifetime supply

You could pressure test the cooling system to verify the leak before tearing into it. Other thing is to look into exhaust system trickling water into exhaust . Would think you would see evidence of this on spark plugs

Off the cuff I would say mid 30s so you are probably pretty good. Key is to prop int the upper end of the recommended wot range

Agreed every time when i fill mine first couple uses it drops a bit, top it off and good the rest of the season

I would push him to see if this could be warrantied, no way that should be corroded that bad At this point. There was another poster who had similar issue with a vp duo prop but he noticed this at year one , yiu may be able to search and find his thread. was this visible when removing props...

Part number 12 has what i think is the brush set they list two kinds one for three wire motor , one for i guess two wire ? They are cheap…https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercruiser-sterndrive-parts/120140-19701977/2791957-thru-4893634/hydraulic-pump-assembly-complete

See if thats the issue first. Is this a fresh or saltwater boat? You dont need to get manifolds from a sea ray dealer , you can get merc or Barr manifolds lots of places. Would at least compare pricing. For refernce you can find an oem merc kit with manifolds and elbows gaskets and hardware for...

Yes but normally tapping it and works better means you need new brushes… so would make sure to do them while in there

Might be hydrolock maybe water getting in cylinders from leaking exhaust manifolds ? First hit of starter expels water then yiu are good till its sits off long enough to drip water in cylinders. are spark plugs clean ? Water in combustion chamber will clean carbon off plugs and chamber. You can...

Try the brushes may work if u can get your hands on them. If merc doesn't have them you may be able to take motor off and go to alternator / starter repair shop

Yes if you can get them. Did it years ago on same style pump on my grandfathers boat. Wasn't hard at all. Might be worth pulling it apart and seeing how the motor looks. might be corrosion of dried up grease on bearing and or bushings inside motor. I'm getting power windows working on my 65...