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navy jones ?

if it runs 30s it is burning carb fuel and no more based on " The next time on the same river I found that if I pumped the ball slowly while at higher RPM the motor wouldn’t die" it sounds like a bad fuel pump or screen. may as well check everything associated with fuel pick-up to...

check with folks on AOMCI "ask a member" were oldies live.... https://www.outboarddecals.com/store/c/18-Boat-Engine-Decals.aspx

since they have no side cover plates to tap into to get a pressure pulse you must use the air pressure nipple and change the side connector to a single line one... best to find one before starting any mods !!! . a small Mikuni B&S pump works well... yet some have reported problems with...

my brother had a 90hp E-ETEC tiller model. must be some used ones around but ETEC's are no longer made (evinrude folded) unless you have a local tech to support them...maybe best to look at other stuff.

whatever... just flip the float over and retry . the inlet needle must drop down when the carb is held right side up . if not run a small mono line in the inlet barb air must pass right side up... upside down ......the float must be level with the carb body and inlet...

when you service a carb it is important to finish with a blow test on the fuel inlet held right side up with no fuel in the carb.... air should freely enter the carb when blow in and exit . IF air does not exit the carb is blocked and the air lock will prevent the entry of fuel. when...

if originality is not an issue you can convert it to fuel pump with regular tanks up to tou ..

unplug the hose that the engine and see if it pumps gas as you pump if you stick a small screew driver in the female end. it shoud sqwirt fuel as you pump. if not you chould be sucking air instead of fuel check hose connections and tank pick-up tube if ok the the carb inlet...

HP... mdl & year ???

3 ac inputs if for 3 phase rectifiers. normally on most rectifier the AC alternates +/- into a rectifier 2AC ====> 1 DC out each phase is180 degrees apart ( sine wave) 2x180 =360 in a 3 phase rectifier the " rectification" process is shared as each phase is generated...

at -40 F I would have it stored away till Spring time and replace gear oil before putting it to bed . :-)

nothing under the wp to impeed the inflow of water to the pump.??

tried back flushing from the thermostat (s)

check your personnal messages top right enveloppe ...

short the probes ... digital meter should show 0 ohms.... none... if meter is analog needle swings right side to 0 ohms or close and adjust with thumb wheel to 0 put one probe in the plug boot one on the engine frame ... you must read 4-8 Kohms approx if boot to coil connection is...

speeding up may be sign of fuel shortage even if temporary when it speeds up pump the fuel bulb to see if the speed returns to idle... if it settles down it was short on fuel.... has suggested openning the idle needle a bit may help bring up the idle speed a bit with the side knob how...

no tag.. cut wire....deal on craig list.... humm..... must be a boat somewhere with a missing motor.

find something that clicks...(or not) to energize the motor T&T switches typically do not feed high current power to the motor so relays or solenoid takes over.. power must reach the switches then the relay (s) then power is transfered to the motor whip out the VOM..!

some use straps to hold the fw in place while turning the nut.... a small 1/4 nut driver with a socket (5/8 I think) will usually overide the FW movement by simple inertia. then you need at FW puller... to peek under trhe FW .. all basic maintenance if you want to save 90-100 $/H...