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Aluminum boats typically have wood blocks screwed to stringers or aluminum angle bolted to them. Look at starcraft restos on here for more details @Bondo likely has some experience

Are you using an OEM merc impeller /housing or aftermarket OEM is worth the money

Someone didn't know WTF they were doing would be my guess. Do you have separate cooling hoses feeding both the manifolds and elbows? if so you need the check balls. If you have just two hoses feeding the exhaust manifolds only (passes water up through elbows constantly even when thermostat is...

Old possibly watery gas drain the gas and clean out not adjust mixture screw … take a sample of your fuel and let it is in a jar. You will see if this is the issue

I cant see the check valves/balls in the diaphragm pump doing well with sand and debris in normal raw water. Having used both electric and AODs in industrial settings i think you would do a bunch of work to end up with a less reliable system whats the opposition to replacing the existing pump...

Agreed at this point dont think its the module start with the trigger sensor inside dist heres the TB troubleshooting guide https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-mercruiser-thunderbolt-ignition-systems-work.676476/

Pretty sure yours is the Thunderbolt V ignition, not the Delco EST that is available at auto parts stores. The module will only be available through merc, and looks to be discontinued. https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/0M616574/4M11025RS/8182_40 Have had good luck find...

Nice fix will be interested to see how it holds up.

that's is the dust cap over the grease nipple yes you can put grease in When a permalube bearing is installed it comes with a pipe plug to remove the nipple and block off

I used a 1/2" Phenolic (wood) spacer (divided plenum) to act as a heat shield for carb. improved hot restarts significantly Pretty sure this was it...

Wouldn’t hurt to check thermostat housing with IR temp gun to see if 120 indicated by gauge is accurate

I'm with you I hit it pretty hard until I'm up on a plane than back it off to about 3 k ,3200 for cruising ... and it gets made worse by having all adults in the back bench ...

Yeah replied to wrong guy Assumed leak is coming out from between front prop hub and lower in prop shaft area not between lower and upper ? Confirm where leak is I assumed it is by front prop could in exhaust cavity. Post pic if you can

Go compare what $ you have in to more late model used or new boats and you will feel better... given the age of the boat and the semi obsolescence of Ford in the marine environment you had some headwinds.

No issue then treat it in the fall and change your fuel filter annually. Boat is running well now ?

You will have no issues with ethanol as long as your fuel lines fuel pump and carb internal parts are modern ( aka recent carb kit , new hoses) and you burn through the gas reasonably quickly. At end of season treat it with stabil and you will be fine.

Were they new or used units ? Thee are shaft seals in that area

Yes it will drop as throttle is opened Should be less than 2” at wot.

Dont have a diagram for your boat you want to look and see if the yellow red wire on solenoid is getting 12 when key is in start. If it is not getting 12 v power to or from the key through the neutral safety switch in shifter is being interrupted . If you do get 12 v on it then slave solenoid is...

Any boat or engine combo will be an issue if not maintained OBs have their issues too. There was an interesting thread on here about OBs vs IO, a marine mechanic pointed out the cost difference between extended warranties on OBs vs the same warranty on a new IO. oB warranty was quite a bit...