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No grounding of coil body required mount it where and how ever you like

Then the hot side (+12v) of the solenoid is different between old and new solenoid

Run a heavier oil and enjoy it dont rev it beyond 4200-4400 you will be fine

I run this on my 5.0 vortec https://www.michiganmotorz.com/5-7l-4-bbl-vortec-cast-iron-intake-manifold-1996-current Came with the partial engine I got from them- has a very nice mid range punch works very well idle to 5k rpm

True it is no longer the 3k ppm it used to be, but Its still about 1200 ppm which is enough for flat tappet cams. It is generally mentioned in a lot of threads as a cheaper alternative to more expensive classic car oriented oils.

if wire is chaffed where it goes through distributor this will happen

Then you have an issue in your cap and rotor. If you place the cap end of the high voltage wire (coil to cap wire) 3/8" inch of an engine ground crank it and have spark , but don't have spark at the plugs see if cap and rotor are still making good contact. Other thing is to disconnect the...

To OP what ever oil you use make sure it has enough zinc/ZDDP for flat tappet cams most modern oils do not... I think rotella 15-W40 has enough with out getting into the hot rod type oil$

Agree with bondo at that age and these were not the quietest engines new i wouldn’t go looking for too much trouble. I assume given age and the fact its still in one piece it didn’t get much use ? if you are really dying to get into it or it gets worse would think it would be one of the...

Ive never used it always made my own drivers out of material i already had to hit outer race. would ask the OP here that as it seems that is how he damaged his coupler splines

Dump some gas down the carb if it fires it’s the carb , send it back get your money back. If properly rebuilt it should run ok out of box If it doesn’t run u have fuel delivery or spark issue If you are open to it send your old carb to mikes carbs and have home rebuild it

I have used a 1” wooden dowel around the outer race and also a 3” pvc sch 40 pipe piece works ok at least u didn’t need to jank the engine

This listing shows one head for the 120 from ‘63-’89 so i suspect only one head was used the entire run of the 120 https://www.michiganmotorz.com/quicksilver-2-5l-cylinder-head-1963-1989 i think the early serial numbers like you are looking for are pre 1982 and most places dont have listings...

Probably trim limit switch is bad, you can jumper it out just need to be careful not to trim up too high. Long term replace the switch but this is best done when doing bellows and you have transom apart

If you have the style of gimbal bearing install tool that uses the alignment tool with a hole in it to hold a disc pushing the gimbal you may have been pounding on the splines. metal piece dont thing it is ring gear or starter gear tooth ?..

No the idle circut is for idle Through about 1800 rpm. Primary and secondary are for when throttle is open primaries open first then as you continue on to full throttle secondaries open. Do your self a big favor and get the technical manual for this carb read up on how it works. Or buy a holley...

Not uncommon at all, its typical primaries and secondaries have different jetting.

Could be several things quality of fuel supply- empty contents if fuel filter into clear jar should be fresh clean gas low fuel pressure measure fuel pressure at that rpm should have 4-6 psi is the ignition system in good shape timing properly set and is full advance happening carb could need...

cant say this enough in this thread…Use the troubleshooting guide it is a functional test of the complete TB system https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-mercruiser-thunderbolt-ignition-systems-work.676476/ the chart in there will guide you through identifying what isnt working

Merc puts them on with loctite its just pushed on, so most of the time you have to destroy it to get it off… i used a chisel the last time.